By the Seat of Your Pants
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|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 860 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Marea Ross May 2 2006|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jun 3, 2006|
BETA PHOTO: A)By the Seat of your Pants. 5.8 B)A Frayed Not.5....
Starts above the first wave just left of the canyon that separates the Reef Knot formation from the A Frayed Not route. The initial pitches are the very obvious groove/cracks on the right edge of the Reef Knot formation.. Scramble from the top of the wave to a large boulder with a cairn on its top.
P1)Up slab via a shallow crack then trend right to the foot of the Groove /cracks. Cam belay. 200'.5.3
P2) Follow left hand groove to double anchors on the left. 200'5.4
P3)Continue up the groove to natural belay on a flake. 200' 5.5.
P4)Scramble up about 40' where the groove ends go left along a ramp ,then straight up to a steep wall below a large pot hole. Double anchors .80' 5.3. (this next pitch could be avoided by an easy slab to the left)
P5)Climb to the pothole then past a pro bolt, to easier climbing to spike belay. 180' 5.8.
P6)4th class slabs to the summit.
Descent:- The FA party was caught in a thunder storm and rather than set up rappels thought it quicker to down climb the route avoiding P5 to its left. One member of the party totally wrecked a new pair of climbing pants while slithering at great speed down the grooves , hence the name of the route. The other alternative is to locate the rap anchors of Reef Knot at south from a large ledge on the ridge.
Hike north from the Univa canyon road end . About 20 mins. see photo.
A few cams from 1.5" to 3.5" slings .Two 60m Ropes.
|Photos of By the Seat of Your Pants Slideshow