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G Crags
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A Frayed Not 
Baggage 
By the Seat of Your Pants 
Holey Ghost, The 
Middle Finger 
Mitten, The 
On a Wing and a Prayer 
Reef Knot 
Slab family Ross and Son. 
Thumb, The 

By the Seat of Your Pants 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 860', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Marea Ross May 2 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 474
Submitted By: USBRIT on Jun 3, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: A)By the Seat of your Pants. 5.8 B)A Frayed Not.5....

Description 

Starts above the first wave just left of the canyon that separates the Reef Knot formation from the A Frayed Not route. The initial pitches are the very obvious groove/cracks on the right edge of the Reef Knot formation.. Scramble from the top of the wave to a large boulder with a cairn on its top.

P1)Up slab via a shallow crack then trend right to the foot of the Groove /cracks. Cam belay. 200'.5.3
P2) Follow left hand groove to double anchors on the left. 200'5.4
P3)Continue up the groove to natural belay on a flake. 200' 5.5.
P4)Scramble up about 40' where the groove ends go left along a ramp ,then straight up to a steep wall below a large pot hole. Double anchors .80' 5.3. (this next pitch could be avoided by an easy slab to the left)
P5)Climb to the pothole then past a pro bolt, to easier climbing to spike belay. 180' 5.8.
P6)4th class slabs to the summit.

Descent:- The FA party was caught in a thunder storm and rather than set up rappels thought it quicker to down climb the route avoiding P5 to its left. One member of the party totally wrecked a new pair of climbing pants while slithering at great speed down the grooves , hence the name of the route. The other alternative is to locate the rap anchors of Reef Knot at south from a large ledge on the ridge.


Location 

Hike north from the Univa canyon road end . About 20 mins. see photo.


Protection 

A few cams from 1.5" to 3.5" slings .Two 60m Ropes.



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