Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Buzzard's Roost

Select Area...
East Face of Buzzard's Roost 
Southeast Face 
Southwest Face 

Buzzard's Roost  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,590'
Location: 30.5103, -98.8085 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 36,676
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Sep 22, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jason gives Scott a catch as he begins the tight h...

Description 

With the longest approach of any area in the park, climbing at Buzzard’s Roost is as remote as anywhere in Enchanted Rock State Park. When approaching the park on FM 965 Buzzard’s Roost is the first formation you pass. If you look close, you may be able to see climbers on the East Face. Most of the climbing consists of face and crack climbs. There are a handful of bolts here and there, as well as a couple of bolted sport routes, but the majority are trad lines. Climbing is found in three areas: the Southwest Wall, Southeast Wall, and the East Face. The climbing on the Southwest Wall is scattered amongst the boulders on the dome, while the Southeast Wall and the East Face both offer a good concentration of climbs. Differentiating the various routes can be difficult. Must do climbs on Buzzard’s Roost are Eat (5.10a) and Fear of Flying (5.10). A good place to climb on busy days when the other areas are mobbed.

Getting There 

To reach Buzzard’s Roost, follow the Loop Trail along the right (east side) of Sandy Creek. During the dry season, you can also hike up the creek bed. Follow the Loop Trail past the group pavilion and Freshman Mountain to a point just south of Buzzard’s Roost. The loop trail will fork left while the trail to the primitive camping area will continue straight. To reach the Southwest Face, follow the Loop Trail until you’re between Freshman and Buzzard’s. Pick your way to the base of the slabs, and then head up to the blocky boulders that make up the face. To reach the Southeast Wall and East Face, you can scramble along the slabs, pass under the lower boulders, and hike back up to the face. Alternatively, from the Loop Trail you can continue up Sandy Creek until you’re below your choice of areas, and then pick your way through the brush to the wall (some bush whacking required). If you’re coming from the Backside, continue following the Backside Trail north of Freshman Mountain to the intersection with the Loop Trail and turn left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.3 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buzzard's Roost:
Bush Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Southwest Face
Little Feat   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 40'   East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Rope Eater   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Southwest Face
Eat   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Southeast Face
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 40'   East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
P.G. 13   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Southeast Face
Texas Crude   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Fear of Flying   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Aquatic Anxiety   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Browse More Classics in Buzzard's Roost

Featured Route For Buzzard's Roost
The start of Fear of Flying...here's Scott loving the lieback.

Fear of Flying 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
This is one of the most infamous central Texas climbs, and rightly so. Fear of Flying is a continuous crack in a beautiful dihedral that widens up top. Most choose to lieback this beast, which makes the climbing easier, but adds an interesting challenge when placing big gear....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Comments on Buzzard's Roost Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -