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Buzzard Rocks makes for a great day or weekend adventure. The cliff faces West and you get full exposure to the valley below. If you're going to climb in the summer, mornings are the best suggestion. The face will stay cool for you until early afternoon. If you're going to climb in the winter you need to stick with afternoons and evenings. The great exposure to the sun will keep you warm and keep you climbing. There are around 25 registered routes, nothing that goes above 5.10. That makes this a great area for new leaders and weekend warriors. Bring a light rack and set of quick draws. Most climbs are bolted with a few exceptions. Bring your own water, it will be a long walk back to the car if you run out.
From the East-
15 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Buzzard Rocks
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buzzard Rocks:
Three Amigos Direct 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Three Amigos Double Direct 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Kimberly 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Raising Arizona 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Anonymous Flake Right 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Rather be Sk8boarding 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Prajapati 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Ass Cannibal 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Melungian Brotherhood 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
The Bulge 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Pulp Friction 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Buzzard Rocks
Anonymous Flake Right 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Buzzard Rocks
Slab climbing to a lone bolt. Clip it and make the crux move of getting to the large flake. Follow the flake up and right placing finger to hand sized gear. Make an anchor on the tree at the summit. Not as hard as it looks from the ground, this is a great route. Bring a 60 meter rope, you'll use most of it....[more] Browse More Classics in VA