|Type:||Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Asymptote on Jul 25, 2009|
|Comments on Buzzard Bait||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: NE, GA
Apr 17, 2010
Buzzard Bait is actually a poorly protected trad route. It starts at the base of the gully that splilts the Buzzard and Slab walls. Step right onto the wall and climb the face up the right side of the blunt arete. Gear can be found near the start of the steep upper section.
There's a newer bolted route, rated 5.9+, that starts up and left of Buzzard Bait and they link up near the top. The newer bolted route starts on the left side of the blunt arete that forms the left end of the buzzard wall.
More than one party has linked Buzzard Bait and the new bolted route, which I wouldn't really recommend, but I wouldn't really recommend Buzzard Bait anyway :). I think the two routes join up around the 2nd or 3rd bolt of the new route.
By Brian Hudson
From: Lenoir, NC
Feb 9, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
|A toprope can be set up for this route by scrambling down a chossy, steep trail off the left of the main graffiti-covered overlook. The anchors that appear obvious for this route will tend to pull a climber toward (or over) the arete in a fall. The ground starts high on the left and slopes down to the right. Two moves into the route and you're already looking at a 15' fall. The first decent place for pro I found was about 40' off the deck.|