Buzz Lightyear 5.11c
| 306 page views Good page?  |
Add Photo Printer View
Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Just to the left of The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck there is a bolt on a steep and improbable looking piece of rock. The holds are difficult to too see but the route goes just fine, though difficult at the start. After clipping a bolt low clip the bolt on the roof. The next move is the crux, there is an OK 2-3 finger pocket with a long reach to a ginormous jug. Once you hit the jug you can clip the third bolt. Not quite done yet! Continue through steep juggy, and somewhat dirty climbing to the chains. Be prepared to nock some sand and a few pebbles onto your belayer, it appears that this route is not done much (was worried a hold might come off! But fortunately it did not happen!).
Location Left of The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck.
Protection 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor
| Comments on Buzz Lightyear |
|
By DisturbingThePeace From: Albuquerque, NM Sep 22, 2008
| This is probably the most "one move wonder" route at the tower. Stick the dyno passing the second bolt and things are pretty much over. For me this dyno was tough for the grade, it is kinda blind, and I ended up cutting my feet to reach the jug. |
By magoo From: Duke City Aug 16, 2011
| FA was by Chris Grijalva -M |
|