It starts about 20 feet left of the black Romper Room face, in an large, obvious low angle corner with a big flat belay area. Start to the left of the 10' high triangular pillar, then layback up the rounded crack in the right facing corner.
Small to medium pro. Newer two bolt anchor with slings and rings, visible from the start.
Looking back to the start of Buzz Buzz.
Brian leading up Buzz Buzz and enjoying a nice COL...
Dave leading. Scrambled up the boulder to mock a ...
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Surprisingly really good super mellow route! Great for a warm up to some of the other routes in the area on Lotta Balls wall or Alcohol Wall! Takes pretty good gear too!
|By Brian Hench|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Route is hard for 5.4. The crux is a wide section near the top where the face holds diminish. Possibly traffic has worn some down?
A #4 Friend is useful if you happen to have one.
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Apr 24, 2012
Saw an epic on this one this weekend. Not a good lead for inexperienced climbers.
|By Mark Wright|
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This route is best avoided if you're looking for an easy route to warm up on in this area. I'm an experienced trad leader, and fell this weekend (5/1/12) because of a foot popping off the very sandy right face of the dihedral along the upper crack. The rock on this route has very little patina or varnish on it, so it is very sandy and soft. The small face holds in the face along the wide crack above the last ledge are very worn, and the rock quality is such that the shoe rubber does not stick well when smearing. So I climbed it like an off width crack, not trusting my feet on the face. We climbed several other routes in the Romper Room, rated 5.5-5.7 (they were quite good!), and this route was harder than any of those. In my opinion, it's definitely not a 5.4, and definitely not a route for a beginner lead climber.
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
Apparently this route sees a lot of falls. The climb seems pretty straight forward. I would recommend just going up jamming your feet straight in, rather than focussing to hard on. Face c,imbuing. Couple laybacks where the crack gets larger.
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 17, 2013
I have to agree with other climbers regarding this one. I went to the romper room area to get a bunch of easy leads in (new to lead) and ended up TRing instead and leading doobie dance. It is NOT 5.4. Awkward moves abound. My partner climbed it 4 times just to get used to it. I've climbed easier 5.8. I suppose if you want to get prepared for a long alpine climb it's a good teacher for things you might not expect. 5.5 or 5.6 and not a beginning leader climb.
|By Karla Lipp|
Nov 27, 2013
11/28/2013 - Not a jug hall. Definitely not 5.4 but not harder than 5.6 if you have foot jamming skills. I used a #3 Camelot down low and a $4 up high for good protection.
Jan 9, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
This is definitely a lot harder than a 5.4. Went there expecting an easy climb for someone just getting into trad. Should have read MP and not just rely on the book. The approach is about 1 - 1.5 miles in, but it's a nice hike. You want to make sure you approach the wall from the right side, because you can't do it from the left. This isn't easy to see from further away, but you essentially want to hike straight into the valley, pass the location where the climb starts, and then hike up and traverse left to get to it.
I found the bottom part and the top (right before the anchors) the most challenging. Some moves in the middle were maybe 5.4, but as a full climb i think it's at least a 5.7.
What I didn't like about it is there weren't great places to put gear. So I don't recommend this route for a beginner trad leader.