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Buying a new rope. Suggestions?
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May 1, 2012
I'm looking into getting a new rope and am trying to sort out all the options.

First, does dry treatment make that much of a difference if I'm not doing any ice wet alpine climbing?

I want something durable (UIAA 8 or 9 falls) but not too heavy.

Preferably bicolor

I'm not burly enough to legitimize getting a super high performance, super expensive sport climbing rope, but some recommendations on ropes that are great for trad, sport, and lots of multipitch would be welcome.

Thanks!
MeganLM
From Golden, CO
Joined Nov 17, 2011
0 points
May 1, 2012
I think you can get bogged down overanalyzing all the specs on a rope. You want a rope with an 8 or 9 falls rating and bicolor? There you go, just buy it!

My experience is that dry ropes slide a little easier through your belay device and pro, at least for a little while. Other than that, not sure there is much to be gained unless you are doing alpine or ice.
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
130 points
May 1, 2012
I really like this rope.
e-omc.com/catalog/products/769...
Rafael Rovirosa
From Salt Lake, UT
Joined Jun 7, 2011
54 points
May 1, 2012
Start of Pitch 3
Dry treatment has more benefits than just being hydrophobic. It has a better feel to it and is also much more durable(something that is of importance to you apparently).

A bipattern rope, although nice to have are a grip of money. I second the mammut infinity or the mammut supersafe for even more all-around goodness...
alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Joined Jun 12, 2010
175 points
May 1, 2012
Fall rating probably shouldn't matter too much, if I understand correctly, however, I always find myself gravitating to those ropes with a rating of 10+ falls. I like 9.8-10mm 70m bi-pattern ropes. I find middle marks to be ok, but they can be hard to see after some wear --- after a year plus, I can barely makeout the one on my edelrid boa, but it can be found. Plus, after a while, you develop a feel for when you've pulled halfway through.

Dry coating probably doesn't matter, unless you have a specific use that requires it.

I have like all the ropes I have owned, and they have all held up well: Beal, Bluewater, Maxim, New England, & Edelrid. I suspect my bluewater 60m rope was a little short, but I think that just varies. I'm digging the New England 9.9mm 70m bi-pattern glider.

Just pull the trigger once you find a good deal(say 20% off msrp).

And read some reviews - do some googling for any rope before you buy, but like others say, dont worry about it too much.
Joseph Stover
From Batesville, AR
Joined Dec 8, 2005
881 points
May 1, 2012
bluewater lightning pro. the only rope you'll ever need. frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
May 2, 2012
Me
Megan

I would suggest climbing with a number of different people and there ropes . . .

I have a New England Glider Bi-Pattern 9.9mm x 70m Dry-Core and love it! It has a tighter woven sheath IMO gives it nice handling ext.ext.

Happy sending
Lyont72
From Foco, CO
Joined Dec 7, 2011
228 points
May 2, 2012
9.7-10mm 70m non dry, non bi patern basic rope ... bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,153 points
May 2, 2012
gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merc... michaeltarne
Joined Jan 2, 2011
124 points
May 2, 2012
Lyont72 wrote:
I have a New England Glider Bi-Pattern 9.9mm x 70m Dry-Core and love it!

+1

The Glider is a phenomenal rope, especially for trad. Happy sending
Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
May 2, 2012
Anything by Sterling


or the Petzl Nomad
Jonathan Steitzer
From midcoast, maine
Joined Feb 21, 2010
1,425 points
May 2, 2012
Great quality rock on this one!
Sterling Evolution Velocity Mark Mueller
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Nov 4, 2011
176 points
May 2, 2012
I love my Petzl Xion (10.1 mm) which I got last year.

I've used it for sport leading and for top roping - last year I did top roping on it 2-3 times a week.

I think one of the big factors in my liking it was the dry coating. The rope started out extremely manageable - very bendy and stretchy, running easily through an ATC. It didn't tangle easily, and didn't leave black marks on your hands when belaying with it.

After about a summer of use, however, it began to accumulate dirt - presumably oxide from running over carabiners. So now I get the black streaks on the palms of my hands when handling it. And it has become more tangly and less manageable. The surface of the rope was almost waxy for the first year, but by now it's gotten much more rough; I think that means the external dry coat is mostly gone. I finally caved in and washed it (cold water in the bath tub). That helped some but it's still slightly dirty.

I suspect that the dry coat is what made it so manageable and kept it clean for such a long time, but I could be wrong. I might try other ropes, but I do like the Xion. Whatever I get next, I would go for the dry coat.

FWIW the Xion has a middle marker, and I find it very easy to see. A bicolored or bipatterned rope is tempting. But you do have to be careful about that. I was climbing with someone who thought he was using my rope (it was not mine, but the color was similar), and he thought he'd seen the middle mark, but it just turned out to be some dirt. Fortunately this did not result in injury or death, but it could have (he nearly rapped off the ends of the rope). If you think this can be prevented by using a bicolored rope, even those can be trimmed unevenly. Nothing replaces manually verifying you've got the middle of the rope.
dragons
From Lowell, MA
Joined Aug 19, 2011
542 points
May 2, 2012
up we go
steitz wrote:
Anything by Sterling or the Petzl Nomad


I have Mammut ropes (9.8 dry) but my partner has Sterlings... +1 for Sterling, what an amazing rope. It handles so well in every way.

I love the Mammut, it takes abuse, but if I were to do it all over again. Sterling.
tacowagon
From Charlotte, NC
Joined Sep 7, 2011
10 points
May 2, 2012
Rrrrr
I prefer PMI, they have a special oxytocin release factor for my female partners; which is a bonus Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
May 2, 2012
...
"I think you can get bogged down overanalyzing all the specs on a rope. You want a rope with an 8 or 9 falls rating and bicolor? There you go, just buy it!"...


Ditto...
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
May 2, 2012
me
I love my mammut supersafe 10.2 and my petzl xion 10.1. But if I had to pick one I would go with the mammut. Rob Selter
From running springs Ca
Joined Feb 11, 2012
163 points
May 2, 2012
Owens Gorge.  Mt Tom in background.
Here are a couple of good resources:

eveningsends.com/2012/02/how-t...
outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Ro...

Personally, I use either Mammut or Sterling ropes. I like using 9.5 - 9.8 mm diameter ropes for sport or trad climbing.
Zirkel
From Bishop, CA
Joined Mar 18, 2007
130 points
May 3, 2012
Thank you all for your input. I actually have a deal where I can get 50% off MSRP but only on Bluewater, Edelweiss and Mammut ropes. So knowing I'm getting a damn good deal, among these options which would you recommend? MeganLM
From Golden, CO
Joined Nov 17, 2011
0 points
May 3, 2012
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
It's thinner than you were looking for, but if you get a mammut deal, check out the Infinity. 9.5mm, 8-9uiaa falls, light (58g/m), and plenty durable. Best rope i've had so far, great for long routes. Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
923 points
May 3, 2012
me
Go with the mammut I had one blue water and it was a pos. Rob Selter
From running springs Ca
Joined Feb 11, 2012
163 points
May 4, 2012
I too have a (relavatively new) Bluewater Pulse 9.9 70m non-dry. Handles nice but still a little 'kinky'. It has a tight sheath and looks like it will wear well. Very light for a 9.9 (I have a 70m).
To the OP, since you get a deep discount on Mammut, go with Mammut. The Galaxy 10mm was my first 60m rope. I had to retire it because of number of seasons used, not due to wear or lumpiness.
S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
498 points
May 4, 2012
MeganLM wrote:
Thank you all for your input. I actually have a deal where I can get 50% off MSRP but only on Bluewater, Edelweiss and Mammut ropes. So knowing I'm getting a damn good deal, among these options which would you recommend?



In my experience, Mammut are more durable and stiffer, and less likely to tangle. Sterling are (a little) more susceptible to abrasion, but much softer handling.

For this reason, I like Mammut for skinny lines like twins/doubles, which tend to be tangle-fests and where abrasion is a big deal.

My Mammut Supersafe 10.2 is a nice bomber all-purpose rope, but really stiff. Pulling that thing through an autoblock (even B-52 or Gi-Gi) feels like it's 11mm+.

My Sterling 9.2mm Nano is awesome for anything but TR'ing or repeated falls. It's not proven to be durable, and I quickly set it aside for snow/ice and alpine routes with long approaches.

If you're mostly doing single-pitch, lowering off anchors, and not top-belaying through an auto-block, any of the 10mm-ish Mammut ropes will provide bomber performance.
Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
46 points
Mar 12, 2013
Mammut. Whatever you do look into something dry treated if you are going to climb a lot of multipitch you will get rained on at some point. A partner had a non treated 10.5 edelrid and we got poured on one day as i topped out. the rope got soaked as i belayed him up. It swelled up to about 11mm and stayed like that forever. Snoopy
Joined Oct 26, 2011
89 points
Mar 12, 2013
austin luper wrote:
Mammut. Whatever you do look into something dry treated if you are going to climb a lot of multipitch you will get rained on at some point. A partner had a non treated 10.5 edelrid and we got poured on one day as i topped out. the rope got soaked as i belayed him up. It swelled up to about 11mm and stayed like that forever.



if you climb a lot of multi your mammut dry treatement will wear off in about 50-100 pitches

ive got 5 mammut rope to prove it ;)

get a thinner rope for multi, and if it swells up ... learn the munter
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,153 points
Mar 12, 2013
Let me clarify...make sure it's core treated. I've never had one swell up. Anyone that climbs should be able to munter......fat or skinny rope Snoopy
Joined Oct 26, 2011
89 points


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