The Buttress Of Cracks is, as the name implies, a good spot for crack climbing but there's some good face climbs to be done here as well. The longest climbs here are two pitches with most being long, single pitch affairs. Descents vary from walk offs to rappels depending upon the climb.
Crack climbers will enjoy The Hernia (5.8), Sword of Damocles (5.9), Frustration (5.10a), Insomnia (5.11b/c) and The Pirate (5.12d). Face climbers will want to try out Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Arcy Farcy (5.10d), Winter Solstice (5.11c) and Blade Runner (5.12b).
The approach trail meets the rock very near the right side of the Buttress of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall. Continuing just past this wall you will reach the Sunshine Face and Smooth Sole Walls.
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
28 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttress of Cracks:
Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks
The Pirate 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b CA
: Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
: ... : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
This striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982. Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshu...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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