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Buttress of Cracks

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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side 
Buttress of Cracks - Right Side 

Buttress of Cracks 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Page Views: 88,733
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
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Description 

The Buttress Of Cracks is, as the name implies, a good spot for crack climbing but there's some good face climbs to be done here as well. The longest climbs here are two pitches with most being long, single pitch affairs. Descents vary from walk offs to rappels depending upon the climb.

Crack climbers will enjoy The Hernia (5.8), Sword of Damocles (5.9), Frustration (5.10a), Insomnia (5.11b/c) and The Pirate (5.12d). Face climbers will want to try out Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Arcy Farcy (5.10d), Winter Solstice (5.11c) and Blade Runner (5.12b).


Getting There 

The approach trail meets the rock very near the right side of the Buttress of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall. Continuing just past this wall you will reach the Sunshine Face and Smooth Sole Walls.


28 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',5],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttress of Cracks:
Captain Hook   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
The Hernia   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Pass Time   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Frustration   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Hernia - Direct Finish   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Double Exposure   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Arcy Farcy   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Insomnia   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Spatula - Direct Start   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks - Right ...
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Winter Solstice   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Walk the Plank   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Blade Runner   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Buttress of Cracks - Right ...
The Pirate   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
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Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks
Kris ticked The Pirate. Bruce Bourassa clicked the shutter. A nice cool afternoon in 1994...

The Pirate 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
This striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982. Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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