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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arcy Farcy 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) 
Bluebeard 
Bocomaru 
Buccaneer, The 
Captain Hook 
Double Exposure 
Double Exposure Direct 
Frustration 
Ham Sandwich 
Hernia - Direct Finish 
Hernia, The 
Insomnia 
Pass Time 
Pirate, The 
Swashbuckler 
Sword of Damocles 
Walk the Plank 
Winter Solstice 

Buttress of Cracks - Left Side 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Page Views: 19,293. Good page?   
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2011

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63° | 45°
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66° | 45°
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61° | 45°
Partly Cloudy
63° | 43°

Looking up at the crux

Description 

This portion of the wall is stacked with moderate cracks, thin runout faces, desperate cracks and a wild arete. Highlights here include Captain Hook (5.7), The Hernia (5.8), Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Insomnia (5.11b), Winter Solstice (5.11c), Walk the Plank (5.12a) and The Pirate (5.12d).


Getting There 

The approach trail meets the rock very near the right side of the Buttress of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttress of Cracks - Left Side:
Captain Hook   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
The Hernia   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Hernia - Direct Finish   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Double Exposure   5.10b A1     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Arcy Farcy   5.10c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Insomnia   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Winter Solstice   5.11c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Pirate   5.12d     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
Browse More Classics in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Kris ticked The Pirate. Bruce Bourassa clicked the shutter. A nice cool afternoon in 1994...

The Pirate 5.12d  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
This striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982. Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA