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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arcy Farcy T 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 
Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

Buttress of Cracks - Left Side 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Page Views: 38,954
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2011
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Insomnia (5.11b)

Description 

This portion of the wall is stacked with moderate cracks, thin runout faces, desperate cracks and a wild arete. Highlights here include Captain Hook (5.7), The Hernia (5.8), Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Insomnia (5.11b), Winter Solstice (5.11c), Walk the Plank (5.12a) and The Pirate (5.12d).


Getting There 

The approach trail meets the rock very near the right side of the Buttress of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall.


Climbing Season


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttress of Cracks - Left Side:
Captain Hook   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
The Hernia   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Pass Time   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Frustration   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Hernia - Direct Finish   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Double Exposure   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150'   
Arcy Farcy   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Insomnia   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Winter Solstice   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Walk the Plank   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Pirate   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Browse More Classics in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Kris ticked The Pirate. Bruce Bourassa clicked the shutter. A nice cool afternoon in 1994...

The Pirate 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
This striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982. Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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