L to R R to L Alpha
This portion of the wall is stacked with moderate cracks, thin runout faces, desperate cracks and a wild arete. Highlights here include Captain Hook (5.7), The Hernia (5.8), Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Insomnia (5.11b), Winter Solstice (5.11c), Walk the Plank (5.12a) and The Pirate (5.12d).
The approach trail meets the rock very near the right side of the Buttress of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall.
Browse More Classics in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttress of Cracks - Left Side:
Captain Hook 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet
The Hernia 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Hernia - Direct Finish 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Double Exposure 5.10b A1 Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Arcy Farcy 5.10c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Insomnia 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Winter Solstice 5.11c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
The Pirate 5.12d Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet
Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
The Pirate 5.12d CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
This striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982. Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshu...[more] Browse More Classics in CA