Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

Buttress Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 517
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This will give you some chimney practice. A short, secure squeeze chimney (crux) leads to a long, wide, enjoyable chimney section above.

Protection 

standard rack, including some larger pieces


Comments on Buttress Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 28, 2016

The first 20 feet of this route put you on Insomnia or give you access to Hesitation. You could do the bottom as a squeeze, but it's easier and faster to stem the corner. You could try to place an offset brass to protect the moves, but it'll probably fall out when you climb past it. Better to just not mess up the moves and have a large, soft belayer to land on if you do slip.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!