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This will give you some chimney practice. A short, secure squeeze chimney (crux) leads to a long, wide, enjoyable chimney section above.
standard rack, including some larger pieces
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 28, 2016
The first 20 feet of this route put you on Insomnia or give you access to Hesitation. You could do the bottom as a squeeze, but it's easier and faster to stem the corner. You could try to place an offset brass to protect the moves, but it'll probably fall out when you climb past it. Better to just not mess up the moves and have a large, soft belayer to land on if you do slip.