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 ADVANCED
Upper Washbowl Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Fritz) Wiesner Route T 
Butterflies are Free T 
Flashdance T 
Hesitation T 
Northern Revival T 
Overture T 
Partition T 
Prelude T 
Till the Fat Lady Sings T 
Weekend Warrior S 

Butterflies are Free 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: P1 Mastercharge: David Lovejoy,Dwight Bradley,Ray Crawford - Butterflies var.: Peter Ulrich, Mark Rechsteiner
Page Views: 1,354
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Sep 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Midway through the crux of "Butterflies are F...

Description 

General: Butterflies are Free is a variation to the first pitch of Mastercharge (5.11b). Its quality, moderate grade, and popularity make it worth noting as a separate route. This route is a great alternate route to gain the 3rd-class ramp that splits the left end of the cliff as well as a great way to approach P2 of Partition.
Route Description: Climb easy rock at the base of the broad corner aiming for the small ledge below and to the left of a small cedar with fixed webbing half-way up the cliff. From here make your way to the obvious crack that starts small but expands to solid hand-size (crux, hard 5.8ish easy 5.9ish). Once you gain the ledge at the top of the hand crack, traverse right to the obvious large ledge below a large flake on the right side of the broad corner. Work up the flake and the small corner to gain the 3rd-class ledge at the top.

Location 

Start: About 50 feet left of the Wiessner Route start. At the base of a broad corner system. Up on the left you can see a hand crack and above a finger crack.
Descent: Two ropes from the large cedar will get you to the ground, but please see the comments on the Upper Washbowl Cliff page regarding descent details for the cliff.

Protection 

Gear: Stoppers, singles to C4 #2 size, doubles in C4 #1 to sew up the hand crack.
Anchors: Either belay off the large cedar on the 3rd-class ramp, belay on the cedar about 20ft climber's left of the Partition corner or belay in the Partition corner on a gear anchor.


Comments on Butterflies are Free Add Comment
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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Aug 7, 2010

The mentioned flake seems to now be residing in pieces at the base of the route and a fresh scar stands in its stead. This makes the first few moves off the ledge into the Butterflies corner a little spicy and leaves you without pro for a bit (though you have to ask how good your pro would be in a flake that is no longer there).
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Oct 1, 2010

I climbed this for the first time recently. I was able to get a good micro cam (#00 or #0 TCU) to protect the opening moves off the ledge.

Like Cannon, this place is falling apart.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 11, 2011

Nice crack climbing on this pitch. Great when combined with partition.
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 30, 2013

SideNote: i made an attempt at the other variation to Mastercharge today. Now I'm Committed (5.8+ PG) is no good. Just right of the tree with tat is a small ledge with a pile of death blocks on it. Above that it appears there has been more rockfall. Tough to protect crumbly rock that looked pretty cruxy. I bailed and climbed the original first pitch of Partition.
By NTH
From: Ithaca
Jun 18, 2015

Did this recently a fun climb, but the description for the final bit is very confusing now (I guess because the flake is gone, as mentioned in above comments?).

The reason is that when you step onto the ledge/corner, the most obvious flake is a big right-facing one on the right-hand face that begins off the ledge. Using it would involve a very committing step off the ledge without any protection, and climbing it looks definitely harder than 5.8, with bad pro.

The correction: after reaching the top of the crack and traversing over to the ledge with the corner, you head directly into the corner, stemming and using couple of small holds, until you can grab what is only now visible as a flake (huge jug) on the right-hand face. Like mr. Lawyer says, you can get a small wire or cam right off the ledge, which won't keep you from hitting the ledge, but will keep you from sliding off into a much worse fall.
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