Butterflies are Free  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  P1 Mastercharge: David Lovejoy,Dwight Bradley,Ray Crawford - Butterflies var.: Peter Ulrich, Mark Rechsteiner Submitted By:  Greg Kuchyt on Sep 2, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Midway through the crux of "Butterflies are Free"....

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Description 

General: Butterflies are Free is a variation to the first pitch of Mastercharge (5.11b). Its quality, moderate grade, and popularity make it worth noting as a separate route. This route is a great alternate route to gain the 3rd-class ramp that splits the left end of the cliff as well as a great way to approach P2 of Partition.
Route Description: Climb easy rock at the base of the broad corner aiming for the small ledge below and to the left of a small cedar with fixed webbing half-way up the cliff. From here make your way to the obvious crack that starts small but expands to solid hand-size (crux, hard 5.8ish easy 5.9ish). Once you gain the ledge at the top of the hand crack, traverse right to the obvious large ledge below a large flake on the right side of the broad corner. Work up the flake and the small corner to gain the 3rd-class ledge at the top.

Location 

Start: About 50 feet left of the Wiessner Route start. At the base of a broad corner system. Up on the left you can see a hand crack and above a finger crack.
Descent: Two ropes from the large cedar will get you to the ground, but please see the comments on the Upper Washbowl Cliff page regarding descent details for the cliff.

Protection 

Gear: Stoppers, singles to C4 #2 size, doubles in C4 #1 to sew up the hand crack.
Anchors: Either belay off the large cedar on the 3rd-class ramp, belay on the cedar about 20ft climber's left of the Partition corner or belay in the Partition corner on a gear anchor.