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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
42 T,TR 
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Butterfingers Right T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
Cording T,TR 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Shadow Warrior T,TR 
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Butterfingers 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: GonnaBe on Apr 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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  • Description 

    Climb the broken blocky arete through a series of roofs to the top. Another variation climbs the face to the right and traverses left to the arete following a horizontal crack that regularly opens up creating deep jugs.

    Location 

    To the right of the bloodguard face and to the left of Seven Wishes.

    Protection 

    Standard rack.


    Comments on Butterfingers Add Comment
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    By DennisL
    From: Bishop, CA
    Apr 22, 2013

    Super awkward - would be a scary lead. Another variant goes right to pull the second roof using a finger crack.
    By Phil Keffer
    Dec 5, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    When leading, skip the arete start and go straight up under the roof for better placement. After getting on the ledge, if you stay right and pull the 2nd roof (recommended), you are looking at a 10a move on good pro.

    Be sure you are solid if you plan to lead this as I have heard of a piece breaking out during a fall on the Rhythm Roof climb. I would not recommend this for new leaders.
    By Budd Rick
    From: Hurricane, Utah
    Apr 15, 2015

    Led this one today and was definitely a bit awkward. Pulling the first roof was pretty heady as I threw a blind nut above me..and people generally tell me I have a height advantage.
    By Andy Weinmann
    From: Alexandria, VA
    Sep 28, 2015
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Committing, awkward and a little burly, hence my "+"...on the upper side of 8. The gear is good but it's not really obvious what you have to do to pull through the moves at the roof. I think different sized people will handle this differently. Def do as Phil suggests for the start so you get some gear before the arĂȘte.
    By Elliott Becker
    From: Washington, DC
    May 19, 2016

    From Up Rope, May 30, 1945:
    On Sugarloaf Mountain, near Dickerson, Md., the group of rocks most commonly visited is 100 yards below the top, beginning 20 or 30 yards to the right of the stairway as one ascends the trail. Crossing the boulder field at the foot of the cliffs, one passes the low cliff nearest the trail to reach the main formation, some 60 feet in height.

    The Butterfinger Climb is on the forbidding and somewhat overhanging nose near the beginning of this formation. The first 10 feet of the climb are in the right angle inside corner to the right of the nose. A hand traverse to the left brings the climber under an overhanging block, which must be surmounted. From the sloping top of the block the climber traverses left around the corner in extremely delicate balance. The next few steps upward are accomplished with finger and friction holds against the pull of a confused gravity, which assumes a horizontal component away from the rock especially for this climb. The remainder of the route is comparatively straightforward, directly to the top of the cliff. The climb is chiefly one of balance and circumspection, although endurance is also required due to the length of the route. A certain amount of nerve is also needed to counteract the ferocious appearance of the cliff.

    The Butterfinger Climb was pioneered one summer day in 1942. Three successful ascents were made, by Paul Bradt, Jean Clark, and Don Hubbard, while many another less fortunate climber experienced a Wild swing and the long ride down. It was on this climb that Paul's rope jammed above him, and when another rope was thrown to him he learned to untie and tie a bowline
    with one hand. Jean is still the only woman to negotiate the climb.

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