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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
42 T,TR 
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Wannabe on Apr 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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  • Description 

    Climb the broken blocky arete through a series of roofs to the top. Another variation climbs the face to the right and traverses left to the arete following a horizontal crack that regularly opens up creating deep jugs.


    To the right of the bloodguard face and to the left of Seven Wishes.


    Standard rack.

    Comments on Butterfingers Add Comment
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    By DennisL
    From: Bishop, CA
    Apr 22, 2013

    Super awkward - would be a scary lead. Another variant goes right to pull the second roof using a finger crack.
    By Phil Keffer
    Dec 5, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    When leading, skip the arete start and go straight up under the roof for better placement. After getting on the ledge, if you stay right and pull the 2nd roof (recommended), you are looking at a 10a move on good pro.

    Be sure you are solid if you plan to lead this as I have heard of a piece breaking out during a fall on the Rhythm Roof climb. I would not recommend this for new leaders.
    By Budd Rick
    From: Rockville Md
    Apr 15, 2015

    Led this one today and was definitely a bit awkward. Pulling the first roof was pretty heady as I threw a blind nut above me..and people generally tell me I have a height advantage.
    By Andy Weinmann
    From: Alexandria, VA
    Sep 28, 2015
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Committing, awkward and a little burly, hence my "+"...on the upper side of 8. The gear is good but it's not really obvious what you have to do to pull through the moves at the roof. I think different sized people will handle this differently. Def do as Phil suggests for the start so you get some gear before the arĂȘte.

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