|Type:||Trad, TR, 30'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Wannabe on Apr 4, 2012|
|Comments on Butterfingers||Add Comment|
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From: Bishop, CA
Apr 22, 2013
|Super awkward - would be a scary lead. Another variant goes right to pull the second roof using a finger crack.|
By Phil Keffer
Dec 5, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When leading, skip the arete start and go straight up under the roof for better placement. After getting on the ledge, if you stay right and pull the 2nd roof (recommended), you are looking at a 10a move on good pro.
Be sure you are solid if you plan to lead this as I have heard of a piece breaking out during a fall on the Rhythm Roof climb. I would not recommend this for new leaders.