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 ADVANCED
Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Butterfingers 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: Wannabe on Apr 4, 2012

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  • Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Climb the broken blocky arete through a series of roofs to the top. Another variation climbs the face to the right and traverses left to the arete following a horizontal crack that regularly opens up creating deep jugs.


    Location 

    To the right of the bloodguard face and to the left of Seven Wishes.


    Protection 

    Standard rack.



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    By DennisL
    Apr 22, 2013

    Super awkward - would be a scary lead. Another variant goes right to pull the second roof using a finger crack.