||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b M4 [details]|
|FA: ||Possibly Chad Volk and Erik Werner, 5/21/11|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||659|
|Submitted By: ||Erik W on Dec 19, 2011|
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BETA PHOTO: Start to Butterfingers.
Name comes from the simple fact that I dropped a ton of kit while on the FA. Freezing cold at the base while belaying I tried to add a balaclava... ZIP, helmet went like an upside down turtle down to Emerald Lake. Further up, was scrambling with tools hooked over my neck and dropped one down the ridge into the descent gully. Butterfingers.
P1: Find the start chimney behind a fin, it angles right. Fun climbing straight up chimney (M4) leads to block ledge system. From here, either take blocky ridge on right to pink headwall or move left and climb smooth slab to same spot (M4+).
P2: At headwall, either traverse left and immediately head up over bulges (M4) or take headwall diagonaling crack (M4-M5). Head straight up ridge, climbing the fun, bouldery steps and cracks as they present themselves. Climb up to big ledge below a clear headwall, or as far as rope drag permits.
P3: Climb headwall, M3+/M4, via the offwidth and then take the left exit of the Y-crack. Bomber tool and gear placements. Continue as far as you can on the ridge until rope drag shuts you down. Might be able to make it up to tree.
P4: Continue along ridge to final difficulties. Take ledge out to right and climb the vertical section at the clear weakness (5.8, be careful, the boulder up top moves). Continue up to final corner leading to summit (5.6).
Descent: Downclimb back of block to trees in gully on right. Rap anchor on lowest tree (you can also just downclimb a gully if the snow is safe).
This is on the same mossy, chossy buttress above Emerald as other routes. Skirt base to far right, directly before the descent gully. Several options exist for first pitch - blocky starts aplenty, or the chimney we used.
Standard rack to #2 Camalot. No screws, no pins.
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Butterfingers. Look behind the fin in the o...
BETA PHOTO: Butterfingers (5.7, M4). Base photo (C) JeffF.
Chad Volk on p1 of Butterfingers. Was a cold morn...
BETA PHOTO: Headwall on p3 - if possible, belay can be place o...