Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Cookie Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock 
America's Cup 
Anathema 
Beverly's Tower 
Butterballs 
Butterfingers 
Catchy 
Catchy Corner 
Chicken Delight 
Cleft, The 
Cookie Left Side 
Cookie Monster 
Cookie-Center, The 
Cookie-Right, The 
Crack-a-Go-Go 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The 
Enema, The 
Enigma, The 
Hardd 
Jardine's Hand 
Meat Grinder 
Outer Limits 
Pringles 
Red Zinger 
Stigma, The 
Twilight Zone 
Twinkie 
Vendetta 
Waverly Wafer 
Wheat Thin 
Unsorted Routes:

Butterfingers 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, Charley Jones 8/71
Season: All year around
Page Views: 3,007
Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Looking down at Roger on crux of Butterfingers.
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is right of the belay. Climb the leaning crack to a fixed nut. At the crack disappears, a foothold appears on the right. Then reach far right for a good hand jam (11a). Easier if tall. Then climb thin hands to the top (10b).

There is bad potential for falling on your belayer. It may be a good idea to move the belay to the left.


Location 

The climb starts at the top of Butterballs/Wheat Thin. You can do Waverly/Butterballs/Butterfingers as Nabisco (10c/11c/11a), or Beverly's/Wheat Thin/Butterfingers as Nabisco Light (10a/10c/11a).


Protection 

Few small pieces protect the crux. Some thin hand gear for the top.



Comments on Butterfingers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Oct 2, 2008

no more fixed nut! hah.

By Kevin Friedrich
Oct 28, 2008

ALiens: 1 red; 1 yellow, 1 Blue for tips crack.

Cams: 2 reds and 2 greens for tight hands above.

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Feb 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Hardest individual move on all Nabisco wall. Harder than crux on Buterballs

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 12, 2010

The crux (first 15+ feet off the belay) was hard, but it is possible to set some good gear up high off the belay stance. Placing gear after that is a challenge until you get to a 5.10 roof with a good finger lock rest, then more 5.10 climbing to the top.

Probably easier on TR when you don't have to fiddle with gear.

The crux left me hanging more times than I'd like to admit :(

By Rob Dillon
Mar 14, 2010

"Probably easier on TR when you don't have to fiddle with gear"

!