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The Cookie Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock T,TR 
America's Cup T 
Anathema T 
Beverly's Tower T 
Butterballs T 
Butterfingers T 
Catchy T 
Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
Cookie-Center, The T 
Cookie-Right, The T 
Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The T 
Enema, The T 
Enigma, The T 
Hardd T 
Jardine's Hand T 
Meat Grinder T 
Outer Limits T 
Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade aka The Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
Twinkie T 
Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Butterfingers 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, Charley Jones 8/71
Season: All year around
Page Views: 3,365
Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Looking down at Roger on crux of Butterfingers.

Description 

The crux is right of the belay. Climb the leaning crack to a fixed nut. At the crack disappears, a foothold appears on the right. Then reach far right for a good hand jam (11a). Easier if tall. Then climb thin hands to the top (10b).

There is bad potential for falling on your belayer. It may be a good idea to move the belay to the left.

Location 

The climb starts at the top of Butterballs/Wheat Thin. You can do Waverly/Butterballs/Butterfingers as Nabisco (10c/11c/11a), or Beverly's/Wheat Thin/Butterfingers as Nabisco Light (10a/10c/11a).

Protection 

Few small pieces protect the crux. Some thin hand gear for the top.


Comments on Butterfingers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Oct 2, 2008

no more fixed nut! hah.
By Kevin Friedrich
Oct 28, 2008

ALiens: 1 red; 1 yellow, 1 Blue for tips crack.

Cams: 2 reds and 2 greens for tight hands above.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Feb 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Hardest individual move on all Nabisco wall. Harder than crux on Buterballs
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 12, 2010

The crux (first 15+ feet off the belay) was hard, but it is possible to set some good gear up high off the belay stance. Placing gear after that is a challenge until you get to a 5.10 roof with a good finger lock rest, then more 5.10 climbing to the top.

Probably easier on TR when you don't have to fiddle with gear.

The crux left me hanging more times than I'd like to admit :(
By Rob Dillon
Mar 14, 2010

"Probably easier on TR when you don't have to fiddle with gear"

!