Butterfingers Make Me Horny 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 5/88 |
| Submitted By: | Andrew Gram on Nov 2, 2002 |
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Andrea Napoli TRs Butterfingers Make Me Horny.
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Description This climbs the first easy looking crack right of the roofy area under a notch in the top of the formation. The first 10 feet are the crux - be careful mantling to get to the first gear placement. After pulling past the crux move on a good fingerlock, easy fun 5.6 jug hauling with bomber stoppers leads to a good ledge where a natural gear belay can be set. Scramble up and left to chains to rap or scramble off. This ledge can be reached with some exposure to set a TR, but this is an excellent beginners lead requiring only a set of stoppers.
The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6
Protection Stoppers, maybe tricams or small cams in the horizontal near the start.
BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall
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Brian Hackler
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Straight forward 5.8. I think it's a really soft ...
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Myong starting up Butterfingers Make Me Horny.
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Jess climbing in good style on Butterfingers
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leading my first 5.8 on gear- Butterfingers Make M...
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| Comments on Butterfingers Make Me Horny |
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Apr 25, 2007
| The route might seem to end at the extreme left of a large ledge. Keep going! One can milk out a few more moves by climbing the face and/or outside corner of the boulder-like rock to the left. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007
| Can't say that I agree with this being a one move wonder - this route had me thinking about my placements all the way up. Not difficult but I think a little more sustained than 5.6. Either way, great climb, fun lead! |
By Tyler Knubs
Sep 29, 2011
| easy route, even for a one-handed climber. it is also incredibly easy to set a top rope. you dont need anything but webbing. there is a giant piece of rock sticking up that you can use. i put 2-3 pieces of webbing around it and that's bomber on its own. |
By Zachary Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Absolutely forgettable climbing. Head over to White Lightning instead. |
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