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 ADVANCED
The Thin Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 
Almost Vertical T 
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 
Child's Play T 
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 
Congratulations T 
Conservative Policies T 
Count on Your Fingers T 
Count Your Blessings TR 
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 
No Calculators Allowed T 
Peculiar Taste Buds T 
Square Root T 

Butterfingers Make Me Horny 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 5/88
Page Views: 2,083
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Nov 2, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall

Description 

This climbs the first easy looking crack right of the roofy area under a notch in the top of the formation. The first 10 feet are the crux - be careful mantling to get to the first gear placement. After pulling past the crux move on a good fingerlock, easy fun 5.6 jug hauling with bomber stoppers leads to a good ledge where a natural gear belay can be set. Scramble up and left to chains to rap or scramble off. This ledge can be reached with some exposure to set a TR, but this is an excellent beginners lead requiring only a set of stoppers.

The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6

Protection 

Stoppers, maybe tricams or small cams in the horizontal near the start.


Photos of Butterfingers Make Me Horny Slideshow Add Photo
Brian Hackler
Brian Hackler
Myong starting up Butterfingers Make Me Horny.
Myong starting up Butterfingers Make Me Horny.
leading my first 5.8 on gear- Butterfingers Make Me Horny
leading my first 5.8 on gear- Butterfingers Make M...
Andrea Napoli TRs Butterfingers Make Me Horny.
Andrea Napoli TRs Butterfingers Make Me Horny.
Jess climbing in good style on Butterfingers
Jess climbing in good style on Butterfingers
Straight forward 5.8.  I think it's a really soft 5.8 in fact if this is a 5.8 then there is no way that White Lightning is a 5.7.
Straight forward 5.8. I think it's a really soft ...
Ben Larson on Butterfingers.
Ben Larson on Butterfingers.

Comments on Butterfingers Make Me Horny Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Apr 25, 2007

The route might seem to end at the extreme left of a large ledge. Keep going! One can milk out a few more moves by climbing the face and/or outside corner of the boulder-like rock to the left.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007

Can't say that I agree with this being a one move wonder - this route had me thinking about my placements all the way up. Not difficult but I think a little more sustained than 5.6. Either way, great climb, fun lead!
By Tyler Knubs
Sep 29, 2011

easy route, even for a one-handed climber. it is also incredibly easy to set a top rope. you dont need anything but webbing. there is a giant piece of rock sticking up that you can use. i put 2-3 pieces of webbing around it and that's bomber on its own.
By Zachary Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Absolutely forgettable climbing. Head over to White Lightning instead.