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 ADVANCED
The Appendage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bulge, The S,TR 
Butterface S 
Crisco Crack T 
Edge, The T 
Full Appendage S,TR 
Lead S 
Ledge, The S,TR 
Only Wimps Top-rope the Bulge S 

Butterface 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Aaron Child and Christian Knight
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,280
Submitted By: Christian Knight on May 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Appendage to The Appendage

9 [[106285641...

Description 

Delicate face climbing with interesting finger locks and crimps.


Location 

The orange-colored face 25 feet left of The Ledge.


Protection 

3 bolts to ring anchors



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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 3, 2008

This is quite a fun little route. If it were only longer...

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 11, 2008

This route was harder than I expected. Lots of balancy climbing on sidepulls and finger locks. As I was climbing it I was thinking, man, this is kinda tricky for a 5.10a. Then as I was lowering down I found holds that I didn't see on my way up... Oh. Yeah, .10a sounds about right...

As others have said, it's fun but really short. Worth doing. My favorite part was the kinda desperate stab for the really good (though you don't know if it's good or not when you're reaching for it) ledge below the chains.

We cleaned out some smallish loose blocks in the cracks that were creaking and wobbling.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Apr 18, 2009

Did the route all on trad gear today and you can sew the thing up pretty well. Used some trick pieces (a couple Splitter Gear 2 Cams and a couple offset Aliens) but it is definitely doable without them. I think the route actually protects better as a trad climb...

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 17, 2009

Quite tricky and hard to read. A pretty good onsite. Started on the far right edge and quickly shifted to the seam/crack left of the bolts the rest of the way.

By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this was a fun little climb. It has a lot of miniature crack-like features that you can jam, while at the same time using different slabby features. It's tricky, awkward, burly, and enjoyable. Too bad it's so short.

By Tim Moore
Apr 8, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Crimpy at parts and hard on the left arm all the way up. Very balancy moves and terrible foot holds especially to start. Pockets are hard to find but surprisingly good when you do find them. A bit reachy especially at the top