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Buttercup 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Kevin Wilkinson in 2012
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Oct 29, 2013
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Buttercup 13c. Heads up and right from huge hueco...

Description 

This is a good entry-level 13c that might suit a boulder with a smidge of endurance.

Scramble up to a ledge and climb a dirty pillar to the base of a steep wall that is sparsely peppered with scoops, pockets and edges .

Delicately establish on the steep face, then boulder past a sustained V8 while stopping to make a few tough clips, then pull onto a large shelf at mid height.

Make a few moves to gain a rail, then bear down on some small, delicate crimps which lead up and right to a huge jug. A final dynamic move gains better holds and the chains.

Since this is a newer route, things are still cleaning up. Especially the second half.


Location 

Third route from the left. Look for the distinct pillar and a steep pocketed face with a finish that trends right.


Protection 

Bolts to a two bolt anchor



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