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BETA PHOTO: Butterbeans (5.10a).
The connoisseurs offwidth. Steep but and strenous, but you don't have to sacifice your skin.
Past the trash compactor but before the monkey face
Up to a #4 BD for the bulk of the climb. Might need a bigger cam if you are afraid you'll blow the easier top part.
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2007
Bring a spider wand, big pro, and your courage!
Big Cracks need love too!
Jun 27, 2007
Although known as an off-width, a few hand-jams, several face holds, and stenuous layback (crux) puts you into the large upper slot where the route backs-off considerably. No PURE off-width technique really necessary on this one. (Save the arm-bars and body-jams for another time....)