Butterballs 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Henry Barber, May 1973 |
| Submitted By: | caughtinside on Mar 26, 2007 |
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Megan on Butterballs. Photo by Marc Horan.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Splitter fingers straight up the center of the Nabisco wall. Vertical on strenuous fingerlocks, with the occasional diorite bump barely protruding for feet. Sustained and classic. Think about Bachar or Croft soloing this thing when you're on it.
Location On the Nabisco Wall, just left of Wheat Thin. Access it by Waverly Wafer or Beverly's Tower.
Protection Both the bottom belay and the top belay are bolted, all thin to 1" gear in between. Remember this was originally led on all nuts!
The classic finger crack: Butterballs
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looking stylish on butterballs
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Butterballs is very sustained and splitter the who...
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totally *****
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Security
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Nearing the end of Butterballs
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Mark Wilford on Butterballs.
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Butterballs, one of the best finger cracks in the ...
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Henry Barber on the FFA of Butterballs (5.11c), Yo...
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 17, 2007
| If this pitch is not 4-stars, then I don't know what is. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Oct 22, 2008
| I would disagree with the original poster's gear beta. I took this:
2 blue TCU (or .3 camalot/yellow C3)
3 .4 camalots
3 .5 camalots
1 .75 camalot
That does a perfect job of stiching it up (if you can hang on long enough to place it!). |
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Nov 5, 2008
| The upper half of this route will feel hard if you have thin fingers. This is defintally one of the best finger cracks in the Valley. |
By BenL
Jan 27, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| for those with small fingers, I think it is a good idea to tape up more than usually, it's much easier if your finger are fairly big! |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 27, 2009
| Taping for "size" is beyond ghey. |
By BenL
Feb 6, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| ok. didn't know that. good you told me. thanks for the laugh. |
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010
| just a great finger crack |
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jan 31, 2011
| spelling gay 'ghey' is really gay |
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