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Butterballs 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Henry Barber, May 1973
Page Views: 14,439
Submitted By: caughtinside on Mar 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Nearing the end of Butterballs

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Splitter fingers straight up the center of the Nabisco wall. Vertical on strenuous fingerlocks, with the occasional diorite bump barely protruding for feet. Sustained and classic. Think about Bachar or Croft soloing this thing when you're on it.

Location 

On the Nabisco Wall, just left of Wheat Thin. Access it by Waverly Wafer or Beverly's Tower.

Protection 

Both the bottom belay and the top belay are bolted, all thin to 1" gear in between. Remember this was originally led on all nuts!


Photos of Butterballs Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Wilford on Butterballs.
Mark Wilford on Butterballs.
totally *****
totally *****
Security
Security
looking stylish on butterballs
looking stylish on butterballs
Henry Barber on the FFA of Butterballs (5.11c), Yo...
Henry Barber on the FFA of Butterballs (5.11c), Yo...
Butterballs, one of the best finger cracks in the ...
Butterballs, one of the best finger cracks in the ...
The classic finger crack:  Butterballs
The classic finger crack: Butterballs
Butterballs is very sustained and splitter the who...
Butterballs is very sustained and splitter the who...
Megan on Butterballs.  Photo by Marc Horan.
Megan on Butterballs. Photo by Marc Horan.
Butterballs!
Butterballs!

Comments on Butterballs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 17, 2007

If this pitch is not 4-stars, then I don't know what is.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Oct 22, 2008

I would disagree with the original poster's gear beta. I took this:

2 blue TCU (or .3 camalot/yellow C3)
3 .4 camalots
3 .5 camalots
1 .75 camalot

That does a perfect job of stiching it up (if you can hang on long enough to place it!).
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Nov 5, 2008

The upper half of this route will feel hard if you have thin fingers. This is defintally one of the best finger cracks in the Valley.
By BenL
Jan 27, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

for those with small fingers, I think it is a good idea to tape up more than usually, it's much easier if your finger are fairly big!
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 27, 2009

Taping for "size" is beyond ghey.
By BenL
Feb 6, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

ok. didn't know that. good you told me. thanks for the laugh.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010

just a great finger crack
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jan 31, 2011

spelling gay 'ghey' is really gay
By Muscrat
Jan 21, 2015

Saying that spelling gay 'ghey' is really gay is really really ghey.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 13, 2015

super gay. not that there's anything wrong with that...

seriously though, i'm not sure what the ethical problem is with taping for size when we wear rock shoes with sticky rubber designed to help us stick our toes into tiny cracks like this one.
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