|8,028 page views|
Megan on Butterballs. Photo by Marc Horan.
Splitter fingers straight up the center of the Nabisco wall. Vertical on strenuous fingerlocks, with the occasional diorite bump barely protruding for feet. Sustained and classic. Think about Bachar or Croft soloing this thing when you're on it.
On the Nabisco Wall, just left of Wheat Thin. Access it by Waverly Wafer or Beverly's Tower.
Both the bottom belay and the top belay are bolted, all thin to 1" gear in between. Remember this was originally led on all nuts!
The classic finger crack: Butterballs
looking stylish on butterballs
Butterballs is very sustained and splitter the who...
Nearing the end of Butterballs
Mark Wilford on Butterballs.
Butterballs, one of the best finger cracks in the ...
Henry Barber on the FFA of Butterballs (5.11c), Yo...
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
May 17, 2007
If this pitch is not 4-stars, then I don't know what is.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Oct 22, 2008
I would disagree with the original poster's gear beta. I took this:
2 blue TCU (or .3 camalot/yellow C3)
3 .4 camalots
3 .5 camalots
1 .75 camalot
That does a perfect job of stiching it up (if you can hang on long enough to place it!).
|By Brad G|
From: Yosemite and else where
Nov 5, 2008
The upper half of this route will feel hard if you have thin fingers. This is defintally one of the best finger cracks in the Valley.
Jan 27, 2009
for those with small fingers, I think it is a good idea to tape up more than usually, it's much easier if your finger are fairly big!
|By Russ Walling|
Jan 27, 2009
Taping for "size" is beyond ghey.
Feb 6, 2009
ok. didn't know that. good you told me. thanks for the laugh.
|By chuck claude|
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010
just a great finger crack
|By Colin Brochard|
From: San Francisco
Jan 31, 2011
spelling gay 'ghey' is really gay