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 ADVANCED
Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bisector S,TR 
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 
Bolt Talk S 
Bongo Fury S 
Butter Side Down S 
Clone Call S 
Eight Flake S 
Flinch S 
Grinch S 
Horton Here's a Tufa S 
Mas Cerveza S 
Prototype S 
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 
Smitten Psychopath S 
Socks On Chicks S 
Star Belly Sneeches S 
Sugar S 
Unnatural S 
Yertle the Turtle S 

Butter Side Down 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Josh Pierce
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 5, 2013

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Description 

This is a good route that starts with rounded hold up a vertical face until you can gain the obvious arching flake/undercling feature. From here some longer moves surmount the steep panel above followed by a couple of shelfs to get up to the anchor.

Location 

Second route left of Eight Flake, the first is very close. Also the middle route of 3 on this small section of wall. Climbs through the obvious undercling flake halfway up the wall.

Protection 

5 bolts to a bolted anchor. This route appears to have originally had 3 bolts and had bolts added below and above the middle one. I clipped the first 2 and last 2 skipping the older one in the middle.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 5, 2013

At this time the anchor bolts just have quick-links on them which, if you thread both to clean and lower will horribly kink your rope. It would be nice to get a second link on each bolt, some chain (an odd number of links, 5 or 7) on each or some fixed biners to make using both bolts more reasonable.