|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Dougls Snively and Bernard Gillett, 2002|
|Submitted By:||Guy H. on Jan 12, 2009|
|Comments on Butter Cup||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 17, 2011
I have mixed feelings about this climb. The good part is the exposure, position and rock quality, all excellent. However, I would have probably equipped the route a little differently, avoiding the initial crux moves by taking the path of least resistance a few feet to the right. It is possible to climb straight up through the first bolt, but it's more like thin 5.9 and can easily be avoided.
Also, it is just as easy to traverse right at the belay ledge to set a TR on the "Prepare to Die" overhanging fist crack if that's your thing.
By Andrew Shewmaker
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 3, 2011
|The move to the first bolt is not difficult, but it does pose a high risk since the drop the the climber's left is pretty high. We scrambled up the right side of the route to set a sling around a rock and run the rope through it, protecting the first move.|