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The Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butter Cup T,S 
Iocane Powder TR 
Princess Tried, The S 
R.O.U.S. S 
Six Fingered Man S 
Unsorted Routes:

Butter Cup 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dougls Snively and Bernard Gillett, 2002
Page Views: 761
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Enjoying the last sun on a cold winter day....


Butter Cup climbs the SW face of the cliff to the top the arete climb, "The Princess Tried, 5.11b". The climbing has great position and exposure in the caynon. There are a handful of what do I do here moments, but nothing too hard. End at a two bolt anchor on the left and rap 90ft to the ground. You will need to hike around the base to reach your packs.


Find a sunny alcove on the West side of the cliff above a small spire. Butter Cup starts on a small ledge system to the left.


#2 Camalot and quick draws....

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By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 17, 2011

I have mixed feelings about this climb. The good part is the exposure, position and rock quality, all excellent. However, I would have probably equipped the route a little differently, avoiding the initial crux moves by taking the path of least resistance a few feet to the right. It is possible to climb straight up through the first bolt, but it's more like thin 5.9 and can easily be avoided.

Also, it is just as easy to traverse right at the belay ledge to set a TR on the "Prepare to Die" overhanging fist crack if that's your thing.
By Andrew Shewmaker
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 3, 2011

The move to the first bolt is not difficult, but it does pose a high risk since the drop the the climber's left is pretty high. We scrambled up the right side of the route to set a sling around a rock and run the rope through it, protecting the first move.

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