Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beaver Fever S 
Belfry, The 
Big Dipper, The S 
Butt Luscious S 
Go Dog Go S 
Hair Shirt S 
Hee Haw S 
Infa-Red Riding Hood S 
Jolly Jug S 
Leave it to Beaver S 
Mother Goose S 
Mutant Overload S 
No Doze S 
Pump Truck S 
Salad Shooter S 
Three Little Pigs S 

Butt Luscious 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 2,952
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Just after the crux reach....

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb starts on the upper tier of the Clock Tower, a bit left of the mid-point on the crag. A single hard pull (5.11c) up a blankish start leads to a good ledge and a very long reach to a decent horn, a very height-dependent move, and the crux at 5.11+ (but look at the comments). Haul up over the horn to great 5.11 face climbing on excellent edges and deep, incut flakes.

It is a great climb worth all three stars for the climbing moves, continuity, and quality of the stone.

Protection 

QDs only. 8-10 QDs and something for the two bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Butt Luscious Slideshow Add Photo
Fun upper part... steep enough to be interesting b...
Fun upper part... steep enough to be interesting b...

Comments on Butt Luscious Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
May 16, 2002

I couldn't detect any chipped holds and the bolts are some of the better spaced at the Sport Park. I'm tall so the reach was easy, so in my book it is 11c and gets *** Cory
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 6, 2002

I am not so tall at 5'9"... But this isn't even height dependent. This is a good 11d route for someone of my size, but the people that are 5'2" aren't going to be doing the same move as those over 6', not that they usually can on reachy routes. I don't think this was a chipped route, and was a fairly interesting and burney route for me.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'm going to take a LOT of heat for this, but it is my honest opinion. This climb is VERY severely overgraded. It's fun but very overgraded. Maybe something broke off and left better holds, maybe it just suited my style, maybe I had the best day of my climbing career, but 5.12a/b should not be a cake walk for me - it should be on par with my most desperate on-sights ever. It wasn't. I'd put it on par with a soft 5.11 or hard 5.10. That said, big moves to big holds. I have very long arms and big shoulders. It you are 6' (I'm 5'10" with a +6" ape index) this should go well.

Really fun move. Please tell me that the opening undercling was real?!?!? It looked and felt drilled to me!

I honestly thought it was 5.10d. I thought about putting 11a/b, because that would stir the pot too much, but my honest opinion is my honest opinion and I don't want to mince that too much.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 16, 2003

TB - yhe ape index does help to soften the move. I think the 5.12 rating was noted in Rolofson's guide, and I used that as a reference. Personally, I don't think the move is 5.10. Mid to upper 11 probably fits.
By non
Aug 26, 2007

Okay...the fragile ego downgraders that frequent this site need to remember that we are talking about moderate routes (11+ through 12-). Does Tony B and his other cast of middle-aged weaklings need to be reminded that there is nothing cutting edge about this grade range? What is their motive to downgrade? To remind the gym rat with six months experience that they haven't scratched the surface of advanced climbing? If you find yourself downgrading 12- routes, you probably need to take up another sport, because you just don't matter anymore!
By Mark Ferguson
May 27, 2008

NON - since when is 11+/12- moderate climbing? We must all not be the "advanced climber" that you are. Based on the attitude here, I would say you are climbing for the wrong reasons. Cutting edge grade range? Looks like you are the one with the ego here. If you are such a cutting edge grade chaser, then why are you making a post on a route at the Sport Park? Attitudes like yours are what I despise about many Boulder area climbers who think that they are just so cool. It is people like you that don't matter anymore.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I didn't like this climb much, I thought the opening move was hard, and would be significantly harder for normal size (reach) people. The rest was pretty much easier, but not gimmee. Good line, not so great climbing.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 13, 2011

The climb is overrated. The Sport Park is overrated. Hell, Boulder Canyon itself is almost always consistently overrated.

And?

And if an area's grades are habitually, consistently soft (or sandbagged, for that matter) AT WHATEVER THE GRADE, then it falls to the community to make a stand and address that, inject some objectivity, as best as that can be acomplished.

So bravo down- and up-graders. As I see it, that's the whole damn point of this Mountain Project.
By Mark Rolofson
Jul 22, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Wow. What a huge amount of bullshit in the comment section & the grades. First, having done this route many times (& I am tall), this route feels like .11d at the 3rd bolt. I rated it .12a/b after watching numerous shorter climbers on the route. Most were stumped, a few suceeded with much more technical beta than my lunge move. Perhaps .11d/12a is a better rating. That said, it is a classic route for Boulder Canyon. There are 8 protection bolts.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 23, 2015

Consensus is 5.11c for BL, but the numbers are still all over the charts. How does 5.11+ work for consensus?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 27, 2015

Harder than "Higher Calling" at Empire seems a bit of stretch.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Richard,
Long time no see. I hope all is going well.

There is no point in changing what you wrote if that's your opinion and you own it and you're not beholden to anyone to change it. The consensus vote shows in the route a few lines down anyway. People can click "details" to see how that was arrived at.

Voices in disagreement are a valuable aspect of the data here. My ongoing discussion here has never been to attempt to get everyone on a single grade or page, it was to defend that the multiple voices are valid, and that no single voice or opinion should or can dictate the opinion of others. I defend my interpretation of the route but don't expect others to necessarily share it.

I don't think it's a big deal to have a consensus rating different, or even far different, than the initial posting. Reason being, at least that is a "flag" that there may be something subjective in the grading or perception of it.

Have a good one, and hope to see you out at the crags some time again!
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Aug 13, 2015

Does this discussion about each other's personalities and egos really belong in comments about a route? Take it to PMs.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!