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Panty Wall
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Butt Floss 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: T. Swain, M. Parker, '94
Page Views: 844
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 29, 2002
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Description 

This is the right-most 'route' of the right-most buttress of Panty Wall.

Approach Panty Wall via the normal trail. Start up and right on the ramp at the wall's base, trying hard not to step on or be bumped off by one of the 3 dozen climbers standing on it on any given day...

Pass the standard up/down scramble, a 4th class gully splitting the wall, then pass a short 5.8 crack systems to reach right-facing flake near the ground. Climb up from this flake to a short 5.10a crack (one move wonder) and then up to the top of the wall. Memory dictates that it is a mere 7m high.

Walk off right and down a ramp to the base again, or walk to the left and scramble down the little gully.


Protection 

This route is listed as a TR and seems to be done most commonly that way. It is a little taller than the nearby 'Thong' (which I refer to as a boulder problem) and the crux is mid-route. Perhaps a TR this is for that reason.



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