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Whip Tide 

Butt Bongo Fiesta 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: John Mallery
Page Views: 6,338
Submitted By: Jen Lloyd on Nov 9, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Tim Deroehn, Butt Bongo Fiesta

Description 

Climb the steep, yet moderate, wall to the lip about half way up the route, being sure to take advantage of any rests you can conjure. They do exist, although they can be a bit elusive. And they do make a difference, despite seeming unnecessary in this "easy" terrain. Once at the lip be prepared for powerful, beta intensive moves all the way to the anchor. Crimps, slopers, heel-hooks, flags, gastons, arete pinches, and a big cross-over move await. Oh, yeah, and some really hard clips.


Location 

Scramble onto the huge boulder which separates the route Waimea from the center of the crag. (Not as hard/scary as it looks). Butt Bongo is the route which goes up the center of the wall on top of the boulder and climbs the left arete.


Protection 

7 bolts



Photos of Butt Bongo Fiesta Slideshow Add Photo
A perfect day in late November. <br />Photo by Zach Landis
A perfect day in late November.
Photo by Zach Land...
Rose Jurkowski, Butt Bongo Fiesta
Rose Jurkowski, Butt Bongo Fiesta
Antonio on the tricky middle part
Antonio on the tricky middle part
Hard clippin'
Hard clippin'
Jed getting horizontal
Jed getting horizontal
Only one more hard move to go...
Only one more hard move to go...
Antonio on the stab move
Antonio on the stab move
Jed taking a look at his hurting hands after a day of climbing
Jed taking a look at his hurting hands after a day...
Yes those are leopard print spandex, and yes they do make you climb harder.
Yes those are leopard print spandex, and yes they ...
weeee
weeee
BBF climbs the line of draws on the left.
BBF climbs the line of draws on the left.
Jed making the bottom moves on this hard climb.
Jed making the bottom moves on this hard climb.
Hill tickling the crimp on the red point crux
Hill tickling the crimp on the red point crux
Bearing down on the opening of butt bongo
Bearing down on the opening of butt bongo
Comments on Butt Bongo Fiesta Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 9, 2009

i think i might try this tomorrow...any specific beta?

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 19, 2009

How does this compare (quality, climbing style, power etc.) to Tin Monkeys, Dynosaur, and Beat Junkie?

edit:
Thanks Jay.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 19, 2009

I would say that BBF is not as pumpy as the other routes you mentioned. However, I feel that the moves on BBF are more advanced than on Tin Monkeys and Dynosaur. Basically, BBF is a 13a that climbs like a 13d, requiring very subtle hip movement and center of gravity awareness.

It's very high quality, and much easier than Beat Junkie, IMO.

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Oct 25, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

Sequential and bouldery. After the moderate face, bust out the roof using an undercling, but first make a hard clip. Heel hook to pull the roof and make another hard clip off a crimp. Surge up into the left facing corner using a heel perch and snatching the right hand on thin sidepulls. Then make a rose move left (think Euro) and make a final deadpoint to a crimp. Take your time on the interesting, easy finish.

By James Otey
From: NH
May 5, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

I never did a rose move on this- did you cross under your arm on the crossover move? That would be impressive considering it's a body tension intensive arete pinch.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 7, 2010

I think the "rose move" is the move where you reach left to the hold around the corner. I reach with my right hand while laying back with my left on the arete. It's kind of rose move-ish.

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

I guess it is technically not a rose move, I reached over my arm like Jay described. French pocketed limestone this is not.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

This gets my vote for the best 13a at Rumney... so subtle yet powerful!
this is one i will come back and climb many times!!!!!!!!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

a lil' video of my 2nd try on BBF... my beta got better on the next couple goes but this shows the general idea...
its a bit funny to listen to otey and i talking while im still low down and also my silly noises as i get more and more pumped...