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Butler Corridor

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Dysecdysis T 
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa S 
Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September S 
Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction), The T 
Spot Craft T 
Viper, The T 
Washed Up Never Was Beens T 

Butler Corridor 


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 18, 2003
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Face on the left has a couple of bolted routes on ...

Description 

This north - south running clandestine corridor, filled with huge nolina plants, is formed by Roundup Rock on the east and a nameless crag on the west. The nameless crag is east of Thrutcher Dome. Large boulders on the south and north ends obfuscate the view into the corridor. There are several excellent crack climbs that make the circuitous approach into the corridor worth the time involved.

This area is also described as the Snake Pit (pg. 307) in Randy's '92 guidebook.


Getting There 

One approach is to enter the aptly named Prickly Pear Canyon flanked by Thrutcher Dome on the east and the nameless crag on the west. Walk a few hundred feet north towards the base of a cactus covered hill. At the base of the hill are some large boulders on your left and a very narrow chimney / corridor on your right that leads into Butler Corridor.


Climbing Season


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Butler Corridor:
Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Butler Corridor

Featured Route For Butler Corridor
Looking for a secure foot placement within the crack. Photo by HHH.

The Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Butler Corridor
This stellar right-slanting finger / hand crack is on the west side of the corridor at the north end. Solid hand jams and finger locks are encountered to the top. The sharp crystals inside the crack may warrant protective tape for your hands. Great climb - 3 out of 5 stars....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Butler Corridor Slideshow Add Photo
Out past the Hook and Ladder Area is the Eiffel Tower
BETA PHOTO: Out past the Hook and Ladder Area is the Eiffel To...
Comments on Butler Corridor Add Comment
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By Randy
May 5, 2011

The approach given for Butler Corridor above is not the best alternative (meaning you really don't want to go that way).

If you are trying to reach routes in the main Corridor (ie: Secret of Mother Butler, Viper, etc.), it is best to continue east in the wash past the Red Obelisk until you can see the southern side of the Corridor (Eiffel Tower and Kokopelli Wall) continue east until you can head well around the eastern side of these formations and then back west and up to the northern side. Enter through the northern side of the Corridor.

For approaching Eiffel Tower, The best approach for the Eiffel Tower is to hike to the base of the southern entrance to Butler Corridor.

To reach the southern end of Butler Corridor, from the vicinity of the Red Obelisk, continue east for 25 yards. Now either:
(1) Turn left and take Prickly Pear Canyon north for about 20 yards, until you can cut right (east) over fairly level ground until you drop into a wash emanating from the Butler Corridor; or
(2) Continue east from the Red Obelisk in the main wash for another 100+ yards, and until you can circle around low rocks on your left and reach the southern entrance from the southeast.

Once below the southern entrance to the Butler Corridor, there is much vegetation and cacti. Stay to the far right of the gully, and scramble up boulders, staying on the right until you are just in the Butler Corridor. Once in the corridor, head left up to the base of the Eiffel Tower.