Butcher of Baghdad 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Diab Rabie |
| Season: | Summer (Afternoon) Winter (Morning) |
| Submitted By: | Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011 |
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Description 'The Butcher' rarely see a repeat because of it's sustained, sharp crimp, face climbing style.
Start on 'Energy Czar'. Trend up and right after the third bolt. Two options here.
(5.12)- Staying right of the bolt line was the original intention of this reachy crimp option.
(5.11+)- Staying slightly cliff left of the bolted line yields a technical, crimpy, but less reachy alternative to the (5.12) variation.
Originally this route shared an anchor with INSTANT KARMA DIRECT(5.10d) but this anchor is in need of some repair. Climb up to the ENERGY CZAR(5.10c) anchor located on the big ledge.
Location This route starts on the same line as 'Energy Czar' but veers right at the third bolt.
Right of 'Caterpillar'.
Left of 'Instant Karma Direct'.
Protection
Six bolts to a two bolt anchor shared with 'Instant Karma Direct' and 'Karma'.
| Comments on Butcher of Baghdad |
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By Drew Hayes
From: Charlotte, NC
Apr 24, 2012
| I've always wondered about this route, I think I'm going to give it a shot next time I'm out there. |
By Dave Frickin Coleman
From: West Columbia, SC
Nov 12, 2012
| i think the anchors for this route should be moved down below the huge ledge because when you rapell down to clean it tears the rope up really bad, the rock up there is really sharp, and if you ever wanted to top rope it you would want an extremely long anchor system. |
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 30, 2013
| This route's original anchor was around the corner halfway up the wall right before the Energy Czar ledge (halfway up Instant Karma Direct). Because this anchor is in bad shape and in need of replacement, it is vetoed for the Energy Czar anchor for 'Butcher', and 'Karma' routes.
Keep your anchor short(two opposing quickdraws...with lockers for all you skeptics) and the rope drag won't be as bad.
When you rappel the rope doesn't move on the rock so it shouldn't tear up the rope when you are cleaning... unless you are being lowered on the rings in which case is seen, by some, as bad practice due to the wear on the rings.
If anything the anchors should be moved to the top of the cliff to extend the routes... just my opinion. |
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