But for a Silver Bullet ... 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | June 30, 2009. Tom Woods, Lora Woods, Ron Olsen and Billy Woods. |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Tom Woods on Jul 10, 2009 |
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Description But for a Silver Bullet is a new trad route located to the left of Tom Thumb, and shares a beginning with The Lone Ranger. This is a good beginner trad climb. Approximately 75 feet long. Start slightly to the right of the slot that becomes Funhouse Chimney, and move up and right to a ledge. Move right to a large dihedral and crack located on a corner buttress. Opportunities for placing good protection abound in this crack. Lieback up the crack for about 20 feet before reaching a solid ledge big enough for both feet (same beginning as The Lone Ranger). Once atop the buttress, move up and left staying in the crack system on the left that will take you all the way to the anchor hooks.
Location 20' left of Broken Arrow.
Protection All trad. Good protection all the way. Small to medium cams and assorted small to medium stoppers. One #4 Camalot to protect the top move to the lowering hooks if desired. Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.
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| Comments on But for a Silver Bullet ... |
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By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Jun 6, 2010
| The sport route to the right of the Lone Ranger/Silver Bullet is no more. The flake with the first 2 or 3 bolts fell off, so now the first bolt is 30' up. The damaged route finishes at the Silver Bullet anchors. |
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 11, 2010
| FYI, that jug/chockstone just above the ledge ~25' up is loose. It shifts when you stand on it. |
By Mike Pharris
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 4, 2012
| Are the hooks for this route gone now? |
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2012
| Just climbed it, I'm a new trad leader. Very fun, good variety of places for cams and nuts. Watch out though, there are plenty of chunks up there that might break free and also be a bad place for pro.
As for the anchors, there two new bolts at the top, along with two old ones. They work fine for rap, they are not well oriented to the face for lowering though, and rope drag would be hard on your rope.
Bottom line, there are permanent anchors at the top, and it's a fun route!!! Probably best to walk off the back. |
By George Bracksieck
Nov 25, 2012
| I thought that this was an interesting lead, but I would NOT recommend it as a beginner's lead. |
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 6, 2012
| Side note after going up this three times - the anchors aren't visible from the ground. You'll see them when you get 2/3 of the way up. They aren't in a good orientation for lowering or rap. Also, to bring up your second you might want to leave a piece to direct the rope because the anchor is off to the side (climber's left).
I don't think the gear opportunities are that stellar, not the best place to learn to place gear. I probably won't climb it again unless I have a good reason.... |
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