Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Dude's Throne
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Doodle Do S 
Brass Monkey S 
Buster Brown S,TR 
Chili Power S 
Double Dominatrix S 
Dude's Dihedral S 
Dude's Five Nine S 
Dude's Jam Crack T 
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 
Dude's Way S 
Golden Gate S 
Green Chile S 
Howdy Doody Time S 
Impeachment Day Parade S 
In Harmsen's Way S 
Jolly Rancher S 
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 
Jugs Out For The Lads S 
Major Dude S 
Mighty Aphrodite S 
Missing Link T,S 
Open Space Cowboy S 
Raven's Brew S 
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 
Short Dude S 
Sky Chi T,S 
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 

Buster Brown 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, 6/2005
Season: Shade until 11am or so in summer.
Page Views: 2,862
Submitted By: SteveZ on Jul 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Buster Brown.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


There is clean, solid rock all the way on this one. Buster Brown is an elegant technical route.

Moderate climbing starts up a fun tight hands crack, over a pillar, and through a small roof. From the jugs above the roof begin the hard climbing by breaking hard right to a left-angling flake/dike and follow it to another small rooflet with underclings. From here, gain a finger crack and follow it to a large flake and jugs out left. Finish with easy climbing to the anchor. This is a pretty sustained route with no distinct crux.


This route begins up a tight hands crack to the right of Dude's Jam Crack. The top half of the route has a distinct brown streak.


12 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos of Buster Brown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Face climbing gold.
Face climbing gold.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool climb.
Cool climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice crack climbing.
Nice crack climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: A great 13 to climb or try to climb.
A great 13 to climb or try to climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great times at Dude's Throne!
Great times at Dude's Throne!

Comments on Buster Brown Add Comment
Show which comments
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jul 29, 2012

Sorry, forgot to snap a picture of this one :-/. In my opinion this is the best looking and climbing route on the wall!
By Mark Rolofson
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

For me, this is the hardest climb on the crag. It took me a lot of tries to make the first redpoint ascent in June 2005. I returned in 2011 to repeat the route, & it took me 9 tries over 5 days to repeat it. I have a much easier time repeating "Major Dude", "Brass Monkey", or "Double Dominatrix", which I have done many times. "Buster Brown" has some small footholds and a tiny crux edge handhold. There are some precision moves on this sustained, vertical face. It is a forearm endurance route with technical climbing. The hard climbing starts with a tricky traverse, followed by a beautiful dike. A thin crux leads to an underclimg. The second crux ascends a discontinuous finger crack. The final redpoint crux is just having enough forearm strength left to make the last thin face moves and reach the top of the juggy flake. One of my favorite vertical face routes.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 21, 2014

Does this route have a chipped hold? It looks like one, feels like one... kinda leads me to think it is one, which detracts one star from the quality.

I wonder if that move would go without it. I think it would, but bump the grade up a letter or two.
By Laura Capps
Feb 9, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This route is some seriously fun face climbing! The crux sequence is extremely reachy for me but definitely doable even at 5'1". Very technical, but positive holds all the way. Definitely get on this route if you are here.
By Brett S.
From: Colorado
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This route looks as good as it climbs. It arcs to the right on an orange splash of granite on very thin, technical face holds. Some of the best face climbing I've ever done. The crux is for sure just linking the moves on the headwall together, there isn't any really single hard stopper move. I would say this is pretty soft for 5.13 with my limited experience at the grade. A classic in my book.
Phil, are you talking about the first crimp on the headwall? The one that you match on to begin the low rightward traverse? Major bummer if this is chipped. Maybe Mr. Rolofson will enlighten us....
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Nov 3, 2015

Huh, that was dumb of me not to pinpoint it. I think we're talking about the same one, Brett.

Great climb nonetheless.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!