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Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
Page Views: 2,569
Submitted By: cloud on Apr 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Crux throw on Busted.

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  • Description 

    Sit start on the flake, move up on side pulls. Great climb!


    2 Pads, spotter

    Photos of Busted Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joel getting it going on "busted".
    Joel getting it going on "busted".
    Rock Climbing Photo: crux on "busted". right hand in the twea...
    crux on "busted". right hand in the twea...

    Comments on Busted Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Peter Franzen
    From: Phoenix, AZ
    Oct 20, 2009
    rating: V8-9 7B+

    That last little right-hand undercling is downright brutal. Super fun problem though!
    By ferrells
    Oct 6, 2013

    Any comments on how this climbs now vs how it climbed before the starting hold breakages? The first move felt harder than the "crux" move above, and kind of thrutchy today. Maybe I'm missing something?
    By frankstoneline
    Dec 23, 2013
    rating: V8 7B

    With good beta the first move went from crux to straightforward for me, I'm not certain the grade has changed much.
    By Andrew Deliduka
    May 31, 2014

    I climbed this from matching on the flake on the lower right. In the book it says something about a flexing jug, though i have never seen one and assume it broke shortly after publication of the guidebook. Starting on the flake crimps with a right heel hook and a low left smear, i pulled on and reached up with my right hand to the first good, right side pull. This was definitely cruxy and desperate, and when paired with the upper crux, may be harder than V8.
    By Jon Nelson
    May 31, 2014

    Maybe the jug breaking off is why they call it "Busted".

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