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Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
Page Views: 2,207
Submitted By: cloud on Apr 23, 2009

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Crux throw on Busted.

Day Use Only/No Campfires MORE INFO >>>


Sit start on the flake, move up on side pulls. Great climb!


2 Pads, spotter

Photos of Busted Slideshow Add Photo
Joel getting it going on "busted".
Joel getting it going on "busted".
crux on "busted". right hand in the twea...
crux on "busted". right hand in the twea...

Comments on Busted Add Comment
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By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 20, 2009
rating: V8-9 7B+

That last little right-hand undercling is downright brutal. Super fun problem though!
By ferrells
Oct 6, 2013

Any comments on how this climbs now vs how it climbed before the starting hold breakages? The first move felt harder than the "crux" move above, and kind of thrutchy today. Maybe I'm missing something?
By frankstoneline
Dec 23, 2013
rating: V8 7B

With good beta the first move went from crux to straightforward for me, I'm not certain the grade has changed much.
By Andrew Deliduka
May 31, 2014

I climbed this from matching on the flake on the lower right. In the book it says something about a flexing jug, though i have never seen one and assume it broke shortly after publication of the guidebook. Starting on the flake crimps with a right heel hook and a low left smear, i pulled on and reached up with my right hand to the first good, right side pull. This was definitely cruxy and desperate, and when paired with the upper crux, may be harder than V8.
By Jon Nelson
May 31, 2014

Maybe the jug breaking off is why they call it "Busted".
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