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Busload of Faith 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA:  Frank Dusl
Page Views: 2,487
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Aug 30, 2008

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Resting just above the redpoint crux. Photo by Sam...


Busload is the classic hard testpiece at Sinks Canyon, as it is relatively long and sustained compared to its peers. The route follows a nearly flawless swath of orange stone, yet is marred slightly by the slimy flake at mid-height. Despite its relative continuity, this is certainly a line for the boulderer, with all of the business coming before the fourth bolt.

The route begins with a vicious boulder problem (that can be bypassed with an enormous reach), capped with a huge dyno to reach the second bolt. A few easy cranks lead to a shallow mono, an awkward lieback, a big span, and finally the redpoint crux: a desperate windmill stab to a three-finger pocket at the fourth bolt. After the first decent shake on the route, move right to the "Trouty" flake, then up and back left, making athletic reaches between hero jugs. A medium-sized crimp at the 5th bolt and a series of two-finger pockets above the 6th provide something to worry about while cruising the steller upper panel.


Left side of the cave, between The Throne and Sister Ray.



Photos of Busload of Faith Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first of three successive two-finger pockets. ...
The first of three successive two-finger pockets. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving past the greasy flake.  Photo by Sam Perkin...
Moving past the greasy flake. Photo by Sam Perkin...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the send, just below the crimp move.  Photo by ...
On the send, just below the crimp move. Photo by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the chains.  Photo by Sam Perkins
Just below the chains. Photo by Sam Perkins

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By EChristensen
From: Bozeman
Apr 24, 2009

FA: Frank Dusl

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