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 ADVANCED
Willow River State Park
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Able 
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck 
Brass Monkey 
Business Time 
Cain 
Couch Time 
Cypher 2 
Daily Grind 
Doppler Effect 
Double Trouble 
Dry Lightning 
Fox Confessor 
Genesis Effect 
Guess and Check 
High Road to China 
Hurtful Pleasures 
Jar of Flies 
Leftovers 
Living Slightly Larger 
Middle Cyclone 
Midsummer Daydreams 
Midsummer Selection 
Mono Mercy 
Mono Route 
Natural Daydreams 
Natural Selection 
New Beginnings 
No Crack for Old Men 
Play Time Is Over 
Pride and Prejudice 
Radioactive Man 
Rejection and Mercy 
Requiem 
Speedy Delivery 
Sudden Daydreams 
Sudden Shock 
Sunday Sermon 
Surf Selection 
Tsunami 
Water Music 
White Noise 

Business Time 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch
Page Views: 1,400
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 15, 2008
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Description 

Longest route at Willow with roughly about 70 hand moves and 17 bolts, give or take. Nothing too super cruxy just continuous movement with a couple rests, that will all leave you with a dry throat in the end. Begin on 'Dry Lightning' and climb it across the roof lip to where it meets 'Cain'. Continue traversing left just above 'Cain' on a couple pockets that will bring you into 'Couch Time'/'Genesis Effect'. Keep going left into the 5th bolt on 'Natural Selection'. Climb 'Natural' just over the roof to a decent rest then finish off the forearm burning on 'Midsummer Daydreams'.


Location 

Starts at the 'Rejection and Mercy' roof crack at the center of the amplitheater.


Protection 

Bolts and some long draws will help with rope drag. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.



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By AntVicino
Oct 14, 2010

Such a sick link up that traverses almost the entire amphitheater. You will definitely have mastered endurance based Willow climbing if you succeed on this route.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 8, 2013

hardest 13b at willow. unlike the others, there are no kneebars. business time also takes a small army to equip. probably the best candidate at willow for using two ropes. mega.