Bushy Tailed Wood Rat 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Doug Stout, Darrell Hodges |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | darrell hodges on Nov 2, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Drone Wall, right side
10. The Drone ...
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Bushy Tailed Wood Rat Five feet to the right of Tre Hermanos.
It goes straight up through the small roof that you can see in the beta photo.
Good holds through the roof with a stemming move. Right after the roof pop up over a bulge through the notch and clip the fourth bolt off a sidepull pocket. Or, clip it however you want.
Go through big jugs to get to the harder to find holds before the anchor.
5 bolts to chain anchor.
| Comments on Bushy Tailed Wood Rat |
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By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Fun climb, the huge pockets full of God knows what makes everything seem a little more adventurous. The pockets are awesome, with big sharp edges that, like Leia to Han Solo in the Return of the Jedi, are just begging to be held onto. Crux for me is getting over the sort of mini-roof by the third bolt. It's a great move, with a cool ridgy/flaky hold to grab onto. Rock is rough, but this climb was a lot of fun. Good luck with the guano. |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| This was actually my favorite of the moderate routes. I even liked it more than Drone. The rock isn't quite as good, but the moves are a lot more fun. |
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