Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Drone Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beeleave S 
Bushy Tailed Wood Rat S 
Dead Finger S 
Drone, The S 
Prestidigitator  S 
Rain Delay S 
Rattler, The S 
short, shitty and sharp S 
Stinger S 
Tres Hermanos S 
Unknown 5.11d S 

Bushy Tailed Wood Rat 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Doug Stout, Darrell Hodges
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: darrell hodges on Nov 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Drone Wall, right side 10. The Drone 5.8 11. Sting...

Bushy Tailed Wood Rat 

Five feet to the right of Tre Hermanos.

It goes straight up through the small roof that you can see in the beta photo.
Good holds through the roof with a stemming move. Right after the roof pop up over a bulge through the notch and clip the fourth bolt off a sidepull pocket. Or, clip it however you want.
Go through big jugs to get to the harder to find holds before the anchor.

5 bolts to chain anchor.

Photos of Bushy Tailed Wood Rat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me starting up the crux.
Me starting up the crux.

Comments on Bushy Tailed Wood Rat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb, the huge pockets full of God knows what makes everything seem a little more adventurous. The pockets are awesome, with big sharp edges that, like Leia to Han Solo in the Return of the Jedi, are just begging to be held onto. Crux for me is getting over the sort of mini-roof by the third bolt. It's a great move, with a cool ridgy/flaky hold to grab onto. Rock is rough, but this climb was a lot of fun. Good luck with the guano.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT (temporarily)
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was actually my favorite of the moderate routes. I even liked it more than Drone. The rock isn't quite as good, but the moves are a lot more fun.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Cool but short route! I wouldn't give it a 5.8 though cuz it felt easier! The crux is very brief!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!