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9. Chimney Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abyss, The 
Boy Howdy 
Horizontal Tango, The 
In and Out 
Jugs of Whine AKA Magic Carpet Ride 
Seduction and Rejection 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Jul 29, 2008
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Follow the crack straight up the big roof. There are a lot of jugs throughout this section that make the roof very manageable. Watch out for cactus at the ledge half way up. Finish by working right after gaining the big ledge, ending on the face of the giant block at the top.


The crack that goes straight up the roof.


Standard TR set up. Long webbing helpful.

Bring small stuff if you try to lead it. I've not looked for placements so scope them out for yourself and go straight up after gaining the ledge rather than right.

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By Riggs
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

After the ledge if you continue straight up rather than to the left it's a little harder and gets slabby at the top, but good climb. The roof area is lots of fun with good positive holds.

By Pete Hunt
Feb 19, 2011

I agree, it is a lot of fun to finish this climb by working right once at the big ledge, finishing on the massive block at the top. I also think this is necessary to earn the 5.8 rating. Also, the juggy roof can feel like 5.6 with the effective use of a drop-knee and the move feels great.