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Bush Shark Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Split T 
Big - T T 
Blood In The Water S 
Bush Shark Spire T 
Cabron T 
Curfew T,S 
Feeding Frenzy T 
Garden Party T 
Ghost Rider T,S 
Great White T,S 
Hammerhead T,S 
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 
Pantomime T 
Westron Wynde T 

Bush Shark Spire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wayne Taylor, Eric Keto, 78
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 3,653
Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 6, 2007

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Robin nearing the end of Bush Shark's p1! The p2;...

Description 

Like the Candle in Chimney Canyon, this route leads to one of the few spire summits in the Sandias. An interesting route with a good hand crack on P1, the second pitch contains the routes crux which occurs right off the belay. The climb ends at a bolted anchor just short of the spires summit. A short section of class 3 scrambling can be done to top out on the summit.

P1: (90’) Starts at the spire’s west face, underneath a large roof. Follow a good hand crack broken up with intermittent ledges. The pitch ends at a bolted belay on a small but good ledge.

P2: (70’) Head straight up negotiating a small bulge (crux). Follow a broken dihedral to the bolted belay.

Descent: Rap the route [straightforward with 2 ropes or a 70m rope; a single 60m rope will also work but is not ideal]

Protection 

Standard rack: double Camalots 0.5-2", some slings.


Photos of Bush Shark Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan leading up the first pitch of Bush Shark. Gre...
Ryan leading up the first pitch of Bush Shark. Gre...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1: follows the hand crack in center of photo.
BETA PHOTO: P1: follows the hand crack in center of photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck negotiating the routes crux of P2.
Chuck negotiating the routes crux of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: approximate route. Yucca Flower Tower can be seen ...
BETA PHOTO: approximate route. Yucca Flower Tower can be seen ...

Comments on Bush Shark Spire Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 22, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you don't want to rappel off, and don't need to return to the base, you can top out by continuing up Garden Party (1 long pitch+ 1 short pitch, "5.8+"), which (despite the name) actually has pretty good climbing too
By Ryan Smyth
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First time leading a 5.9 trad. What a blast. Once you reach the crack, it is on. only got to do the first pitch because thunder and rain scared us off. Lots of jamming and some good liebacking. I wouldn't recommend trying to rappel from the first belay station. unless you have a 70m rope or are willing to do some downclimbing hah. heh.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 6, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Ryan, you are correct, the rappel needs a 70m rope to reach the ground. Don't worry, the first pitch is the better of the two and a half, you should go back though to tag the summit. Next time if your out and getting threated with weather you could TR feeding frenzy and if the S**T hit the fan just lower and pull the rope and get out.

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