Bush Shark Area Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo of Bush Shark Spire. Blue Line is Feedi...
The formations name is a little misleading, as only the summit of Bush Shark Spire
is detached from the main wall. However this makes it easy to spot when approaching from Echo Canyon.
Find the Sandia Crest Spur trail at the south end of the Sandia Crest parking area. Follow it down and past its junction with the La Luz trail (.5 miles). At this junction for Bush Shark Spire, you will drop down into echo canyon by heading southeast. Hug the east wall of the canyon past the Techweeny Buttress
. The trail eventually flattens out at the base of Bush Shark Spire.
Alternate approach #1) Continue south on the La Luz trail towards the tram, look for a climbers trail that forks off right about 5 minutes from the Crest Spur Trail junction. This trail leads to the top of the massive wall behind Bush Shark Spire. From here a north facing gulley can be used to access the Bush Shark area. The gulley is short but steep with a short 4th class section at its end. After the 4th class section heading south (left) will land you at the base of Bush Shark Spire.
Alternate approach #2) Rapping in from Big T
....I have rapped in using double ropes...however cant remmeber which anchors we skipped...to be continued [Alam notes: Note on these raps - the top bolts are very hard to locate. They are out on the point that has a tree, but are about 20 feet down the ledge, and are blocked from view above by a block... the gulley to the north can be done in about 15 mintues, bushy but is much faster than setting 2 raps]
Weather station 1.0 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Bush Shark Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bush Shark Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bush Shark Area:
Garden Party 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 225'
Westron Wynde 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'
Ghost Rider 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'
Big - T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'
Feeding Frenzy 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Hammerhead 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220'
Featured Route For Bush Shark Area
Bush Shark Spire 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NM
: Sandia Mountains
: ... : Bush Shark Area
Like the Candle in Chimney Canyon, this route leads to one of the few spire summits in the Sandias. An interesting route with a good hand crack on P1, the second pitch contains the routes crux which occurs right off the belay. The climb ends at a bolted anchor just short of the spires summit. A short section of class 3 scrambling can be done to top out on the summit. P1: (90) Starts at the spires west face, underneath a large roof. Follow a good hand crack broken up with intermittent le...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: From the top of the Point ...
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 13, 2007
Thanks for adding this link. There's at least one more route not described on RC.com. I don;t know the name, buts its a 5.13a or b that starts at ground level left of "Hammerhead" and surmounts the big roof on the SW prow of bush shark spire. The first half of the pitch ascends a gear-protected, dirty open book at around 5.10. The second half heads left over the big roof with gymnastic moves. FA Lee Brinkerhoff, summer 2005. One could probably discern the route name by viewing Lee's 8a.nu scorecard.
My understanding is that most of the routes were put in by Lee and Lance Hadfield, all drilled by hand. Both of these lads work at Stoneage and happy to give out beta. The three pitch 10+ (Big T?) is a really good route (the only one I've done). It would be really helpful if someone could figure out and post the beta for rapping in to these routes, which makes the approach bushwhack-free. I've done before but I was tagging alon gand can't remember how we did it. I know we rapped into "the notch" at one point.
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 19, 2008
The Jaramillo routes are Cabron 5.10 A2+ and Pantomime 5.10+. They are both right of Westeron Wynde and share climbing in the middle. Topos are available at Stone Age Climbing Gym in the big blue binder with local area updates and info.
The rappels down the Big T can be done with a single 70m rope, a 60m leaves you a little short on the second rappel.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 9, 2013
1) Walk down the main Echo Canyon gully, hugging the left side, passing Techweenie Buttress. Not too bad. Fastest way to walk to the base.
2) Walk down the gully just left (north) of Big T. Not too bad, but more bushwhacking than (#1). Fastest way to walk to the base from the top.
3) Rappel in by Big T (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope). Need to leave long runner/cordelette on only the highest rappel point; all others are fully equipped. Good if you don't want to walk to the base.
4) Rappel in Ghost Rider (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope- 60m should work I think but can't say for sure). Need to leave some runners on top 2 or 3 anchors and climb out Ghost Rider to retrieve them. The last anchor is almost in the "old Bush Shark descent gully", rather than Ghost Rider proper, and you don't need to leave anything there. Good if you're planning to climb Ghost Rider.
All are ok, depending what you're up to.