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Bush Pilots 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 970
Submitted By: Chris Burton on Jan 14, 2006
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Ryan Moran on Bush Pilots just after the crux

Description 

Fun route that's a little burly at the start.


Protection 

Standard rack to 2". The anchor consists of a bunch of slings around a tree on a ledge at the top. The slings have two rap rings on them.



Photos of Bush Pilots Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Trudeau post crux
Chris Trudeau post crux
At the crux
At the crux
Pulling past the crux
Pulling past the crux
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 19, 2013
By rockratrei
Jan 16, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Original route rated 5.8+

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 16, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

this route is 5.9+ in the book, but you need to be a .10ish leader to get on it because the crux is a no-fall situation- blow it and you're decking no matter how much gear you put in....but it is still only .9+....not quite .10a!

good fun, though.

By Chris Burton
Jan 17, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I just copied the rating out of the guidebook (Roxanna's). And I agree, you ought to be solid at the grade (whatever it is) to hop on this one. Last summer's fire has done away with the shrub that would have broken your fall.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Not "R". You can get a good finger sized cam at the left end of the rooflet that would keep you off the deck if you blow the stem. Four feet farther out the mini roof takes a good hand sized piece, after that the route is basically over. If you're short, stretch out for this one...the crux stem is a bit wide. Watch out for ticks from the tree/shrub at the belay.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I saw no danger at all. You can sew the roof thing up and then it is over. Neat route for about 12 feet. Rap out of the tree at the top.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 6, 2007

Agreed, no "R" on this route as the entire thing protects easily. Bring .75-2". Fun opening moves!!

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

Really enjoyable route. (Darn it, it's too short!) The opening moves up past the first little roof are super fun and protect well. I think the R rating comes in at the top for the last 12 feet where it's easy climbing but offers no protection.

By tom donnelly
Nov 18, 2009

Crux is at bottem & has good pro & fun moves. The middle is easy & a bit runout. The rap is off a triple bush at the top. One of the 3 bushes is completely dead as of 11/2009.
The route No Laughing Matter starts 20 feet right of the anchor.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 2, 2012

Rap this with a "new" bolted rap station at the tree ledge.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Friend lead this route and I followed. Bottom crux was protected with a yellow TCU then a #2 C4. You can placed the 1st piece, lower down then clip it from a good stance