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Bush Pilots 

5.10a R

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
FA: unknown
Submitted By: Chris Burton on Jan 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Ryan Moran on Bush Pilots just after the crux

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Description 

Fun route that's a little burly at the start.


Protection 

Standard rack to 2". The anchor consists of a bunch of slings around a tree on a ledge at the top. The slings have two rap rings on them.



Photos of Bush Pilots Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Trudeau post crux

Chris Trudeau post crux

At the crux

At the crux

Pulling past the crux

Pulling past the crux


Comments on Bush Pilots Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 19, 2013
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2013
rating: 5.10a

CONDITION REPORT 

If anyone reads this and is planning on heading up to Brass Wall anytime soon, Bush Pilots REALLY needs new tat and rings. Say 20'-30' of 7mm cord and one or two OP rap rings should do it. The current situation up there is ghetto and pretty sketchy.

By rockratrei
Jan 16, 2006
rating: 5.8+

Original route rated 5.8+

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 16, 2006
rating: 5.10a

this route is 5.9+ in the book, but you need to be a .10ish leader to get on it because the crux is a no-fall situation- blow it and you're decking no matter how much gear you put in....but it is still only .9+....not quite .10a!

good fun, though.

By Chris Burton
Jan 17, 2006
rating: 5.10a

I just copied the rating out of the guidebook (Roxanna's). And I agree, you ought to be solid at the grade (whatever it is) to hop on this one. Last summer's fire has done away with the shrub that would have broken your fall.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a

Not "R". You can get a good finger sized cam at the left end of the rooflet that would keep you off the deck if you blow the stem. Four feet farther out the mini roof takes a good hand sized piece, after that the route is basically over. If you're short, stretch out for this one...the crux stem is a bit wide. Watch out for ticks from the tree/shrub at the belay.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.9

I saw no danger at all. You can sew the roof thing up and then it is over. Neat route for about 12 feet. Rap out of the tree at the top.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 6, 2007

Agreed, no "R" on this route as the entire thing protects easily. Bring .75-2". Fun opening moves!!

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a PG13

Really enjoyable route. (Darn it, it's too short!) The opening moves up past the first little roof are super fun and protect well. I think the R rating comes in at the top for the last 12 feet where it's easy climbing but offers no protection.

By tom donnelly
Nov 18, 2009

Crux is at bottem & has good pro & fun moves. The middle is easy & a bit runout. The rap is off a triple bush at the top. One of the 3 bushes is completely dead as of 11/2009.
The route No Laughing Matter starts 20 feet right of the anchor.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 2, 2012

Rap this with a "new" bolted rap station at the tree ledge.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a

Friend lead this route and I followed. Bottom crux was protected with a yellow TCU then a #2 C4. You can placed the 1st piece, lower down then clip it from a good stance