Bush Pilots 5.10a R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Chris Burton on Jan 14, 2006 |
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Ryan Moran on Bush Pilots just after the crux
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Description Fun route that's a little burly at the start.
Protection Standard rack to 2". The anchor consists of a bunch of slings around a tree on a ledge at the top. The slings have two rap rings on them.
Chris Trudeau post crux
| At the crux
| Pulling past the crux
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By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Feb 2, 2013 rating: 5.10a
CONDITION REPORT | If anyone reads this and is planning on heading up to Brass Wall anytime soon, Bush Pilots REALLY needs new tat and rings. Say 20'-30' of 7mm cord and one or two OP rap rings should do it. The current situation up there is ghetto and pretty sketchy. |
By rockratrei Jan 16, 2006 rating: 5.8+
| Original route rated 5.8+ |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Jan 16, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| this route is 5.9+ in the book, but you need to be a .10ish leader to get on it because the crux is a no-fall situation- blow it and you're decking no matter how much gear you put in....but it is still only .9+....not quite .10a! good fun, though. |
By Chris Burton Jan 17, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| I just copied the rating out of the guidebook (Roxanna's). And I agree, you ought to be solid at the grade (whatever it is) to hop on this one. Last summer's fire has done away with the shrub that would have broken your fall. |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Feb 14, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| Not "R". You can get a good finger sized cam at the left end of the rooflet that would keep you off the deck if you blow the stem. Four feet farther out the mini roof takes a good hand sized piece, after that the route is basically over. If you're short, stretch out for this one...the crux stem is a bit wide. Watch out for ticks from the tree/shrub at the belay. |
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Feb 14, 2007 rating: 5.9
| I saw no danger at all. You can sew the roof thing up and then it is over. Neat route for about 12 feet. Rap out of the tree at the top. |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Mar 6, 2007
| Agreed, no "R" on this route as the entire thing protects easily. Bring .75-2". Fun opening moves!! |
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Nov 25, 2007 rating: 5.10a PG13
| Really enjoyable route. (Darn it, it's too short!) The opening moves up past the first little roof are super fun and protect well. I think the R rating comes in at the top for the last 12 feet where it's easy climbing but offers no protection. |
By tom donnelly Nov 18, 2009
| Crux is at bottem & has good pro & fun moves. The middle is easy & a bit runout. The rap is off a triple bush at the top. One of the 3 bushes is completely dead as of 11/2009. The route No Laughing Matter starts 20 feet right of the anchor. |
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Feb 2, 2012
| Rap this with a "new" bolted rap station at the tree ledge. |
By RNclimber From: Riverside, Ca Jan 19, 2013 rating: 5.10a
| Friend lead this route and I followed. Bottom crux was protected with a yellow TCU then a #2 C4. You can placed the 1st piece, lower down then clip it from a good stance |
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