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Bush Loves Detroit 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,296
Submitted By: Chris Cavallaro on Aug 25, 2001

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Peter Dillon starting the final steep crack.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great trad lead. Immediately to the left of Crawling up Roseanne's Belly, (two climbs to the left of Bimbo in Limbo) is a great prominent crack which is a bit harder than it looks. A variation starts to the right, 5.9- (directly under Roseanne's Belly.)

From David Houston, this dihedral is just left of the Crawling Up Roseanne's Belly arete, about 50' right of the prominent Stella buttress. Apparently there are two alternative starts, we started on the right. In either case the real prize is the upper dihedral. A beautiful crack eats medium cams and a few 5.8 stemming and/or lieback moves will get you to the anchors on top of Roseanne. An underated route on the quality scale in the guidebooks, this is the nicest crack/trad route of its grade I've done at Table. An excellent route for aspiring trad leaders. (Route #177 in Hubbel's guide, #14 in Rolofson.)

Eds. the description was combined to consolidate the database.


Protection 

Cams to 3 inches, wireds.



Photos of Bush Loves Detroit Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Cavallaro toproping HG on Bush Loves Detroit.
Chris Cavallaro toproping HG on Bush Loves Detroit...
Comments on Bush Loves Detroit Add Comment
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By Rob Mullen
May 8, 2002

This crack is home to many birds right now, and as a result is a little slippery.

By shad O'Neel
Jan 13, 2003

So far, the best crack in the 5.8 range [I've] done at [Table Mtn]. Good, good fun. No birds in lately, nice climbing.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2003

An excellent crack climb; one of the best 5.8s at Golden Cliffs. Bring extra hand-sized cams and you can sew it up.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 31, 2004

Yes, the best 5.8 crack at Table.

By Ryan Bibler
From: MT
May 1, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun trad route, one of the few pure crack climbs at Table. I clipped a bolt down low with a long sling before pulling above the bush. Bring your #1 and #2 Camalots for the top.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jan 27, 2010

Nice line. Bottom climbs like a being in a giant's house and going up the stairs. Set of cams to 3" is all you really need, Save the bigger placements for towards the top.

By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

To make this climb a little more interesting, one could avoid using some of the obvious face holds around this climb and stick to jamming the crack. This is a fun little lead, but the many face and stemming options take away from the great hand-crack. The lower crack takes small cams and medium nuts and the upper crack eats #1-2 cams. Enjoy.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Rock was clean and poop free today....

I found it a bit committing for a modern day 5.8, on the other hand it was easily protected. 5.8+.

My gear beta - smaller gear at the bottom, 0.3 to #1. Actually, I had wished for two 0.3 or 0.4, I forget exactly.... For the top, a 2 & 3 - although I never ended up using my #3. It would depend on exactly where you decide to place as the crack seems to span the 2-3 size. Don't bring a #4. If you have enough cams, you won't need to place any nuts.