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Little Eiger
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Bonehead S 
Busch Gardens S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Busch Gardens 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,479
Submitted By: Thor Kieser on Sep 2, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (129)
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BETA PHOTO: Some of the newer routes on Little Eiger. Bush Ad...
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Description 

Welcome to the grand opening of Busch Gardens in Clear Creek Canyon Colorado. The one in Tampa Bay may be closing down but the management decided to move it to Colorado.

You will find the new Busch Gardens to be a modern park for ultimate family fun. There are plenty of good rides and interesting adventures to be had. We even have a kiddie section at the entrance to the park. The Park has a variety of natural settings that have been left untouched by the hand of man.

Start 10 feet to the right of Bush Administration. Climb 5.9 past five bolts to a small roof. Pull the roof and clip six bolts on the headwall to a two bolt anchor. If you have a 60m rope, belay on the ledge 10 feet above the ground.

Addendum: Be careful, it is a rope stretcher back to the ledge with a 60m rope.


Protection 

11 QDs.



Photos of Busch Gardens Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Dillon starting up Busch Gardens.  Moderate climbing leads to a crux roof, with sustained climbing from there to the top.
Peter Dillon starting up Busch Gardens. Moderate ...
Peter Dillon on the steep upper headwall of Busch Gardens (right). <br /> <br />George taking another lap on Bush Administration (left).
Peter Dillon on the steep upper headwall of Busch ...
Peter Dillon at the crux roof.  The handholds aren't great and good technique is needed to get over the lip.
Peter Dillon at the crux roof. The handholds aren...
Comments on Busch Gardens Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 25, 2012
By Scott Bilyeu
Sep 10, 2004

Very nice route! Fun roof move and another fun bulge after that. Thanks Thor for putting in the time, effort and expense.

By Anonymous Coward
May 19, 2005

A really fun route! Kudos to those that had the vision, time, and money to add another great route to Eiger.-Dave of the Kirtlands

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Another fine new route on LIttle Eiger. The route starts 10 feet right of the top of the approach trail. Moderate climbing at the start, then a burly, technical roof that was the crux for me. Above the roof, sustained climbing up a steep headwall leads to the anchor. There's a bit of a runout between the last bolt and the anchor with some devious climbing; take care on this section.

By James R. Arnold
Jul 18, 2005

Did this route yesterday and thought it is really good quality. Thought is was a little better and a little harder than Bush Administration. Thanks Thor for the effort of putting in the route!

By Jerome Stiller
From: Golden CO
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did this route this morning (called in sick to work hehehe...) Great new addition to Little Eiger. Fun, clean, and long (just how I like my women...). Easy until you get to the roof (which is not that hard) and then quite sustained for the duration. Very well bolted. Thanks Thor!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The best of the routes in this immediate area. Crux is thoughful moves with thin feet.

By kevin fox
From: parker
Aug 18, 2007

Great route. The top is where I find the difficulty...from the last bolt and about 3 feet from the anchors I whipped off and ended up back at the 3rd to last bolt. Great ride!

By raise
Jun 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

One of the most enjoyable .10s I've done in Clear Ck. Fun overhang with good holds. Top is a bit difficult. The runout from the last bolt to the anchors can def lead to a lengthy fall. I found it several degrees easier than the Bush Admin to the left.

By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route, found it to be a little nicer than Bush Admin and a smidgen harder.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 26, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A good 10c if you take the roof head on. If you crank right, it's probably only 10b or maybe even 10a.

By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

High on my list of favorite Front Range climbs. Thanks to Thor!

A fun sequence of jugs to the roof. And, then the business begins. Beginning with the pull past the roof, I found each move to be progressively harder than the one before it with little opportunity to rest and a challenging sequence of moves waiting for the run out from the last bolt to the anchors.

And, the other posters are right. That last run out holds the potential for a fun, long ride. I enjoyed a few 15-20 footers.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Much more enjoyable and straightforward than the 10b to the left. Didn't really feel that the top was runout at all.

By Dan White
From: Western CO
Jun 25, 2012

Everything from the roof up is pumpy, and I took a couple of 15-20 footers trying to get to the anchors from the last bolt, but it is a clean fall. There are solid feet up left of the last bolt, then you can cut back right toward the anchors. I hit some mossy hand jugs in that area which makes me think I was bailing off route a little. It's an exciting route, and I want to give it another try.