Starts with a few stiff bouldery moves before settling in on the arete. Here several good rests can be found. The route then moves left continuing on some nice vertical face climbing until the final roof finishing on some big holds.
Look for the blunt arete ending at a right tending arch. No other routes found on either side.
11 quickdraws to a 2-BA
A climber about to take down the roof moves of Bur...
Me at the start of Burning Grandma Bones.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 7, 2011
I appreciate the intent, but with Ten Sleep still seeing a lot of route development, and a new guidebook coming out just about every other year because of that, pinning a specific guidebook-given route number to any climb dooms that reference to obsolescence in fairly short order. For now, just sort the climb (if you can), and once the canyon is all climbed out (probably in about 15 years), then we can start claiming that a route number in the book is permanent.
|By Top Rope Hero|
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Starting in the corner, right of the arete proper (instead of sending the bouldering start), probably shaves off a grade; the roof moves are cinch. Bring a runner for that roof and you can easily/safely skip the first bolt before you jug over to the anchors to eliminate rope drag.
Fantastic line, any way you do it. Might as well gun for the soft 12 above while yer at it!