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West Face
Routes Sorted
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411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Burning Down the House 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Schmitz and Trevor Bowman 9/5/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Sep 18, 2009

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Bryan approaching the crux on the FA.
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The arete between Fractal and P1 of Synchronicity. Start up a slabby shallow dihedral (5.7) up to a small roof on the arete proper, climb left and up onto the steep headwall. Scale this on good squarecut slots and crimps with decent cams in the slots. At the top of the headwall the holds disappear for a bit, forcing you into a cruxy step right and then back left and into a small corner. Continue up the runout slabby upper arete (5.7 R) directly to the anchors on Fractal.
Good climbing and adequate pro. Led on-sight, ground up, cleaned on lead. With a bit more cleaning and some traffic this should clean up nicely!


Location 

The arete between Fractal (on the right) and P1 of Synchronicity (on the left) on the left side of the West Face. Climbs on the left side of the arete linking features.


Protection 

Set of cams through BD #2, set of stoppers, HB offset stoppers handy, offset cams handy.



Photos of Burning Down the House Slideshow Add Photo
Moving through the crux middle section.
Moving through the crux middle section.
Comments on Burning Down the House Add Comment
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By Bickle
Jan 24, 2010

T-Bow:
So after I came back home and spent some time starring at that burned down house, I came to the conclusion that "buring down the house" is a better name!!! I shoudl have told you that earlier. cheers