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(q) Sunkist Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burning Down the House T 
Cheap Day Return T 
Jigsaw T 
Question of Balance T 

Burning Down the House 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel, October 1987
Page Views: 1,110
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Water and fire don't mix.


This is the thin face climb right of Jigsaw (5.10a R), running up the center of the Sunkist Face. Three bolts protect tenuous 5.12 moves, with a bit of runout 5.10 climbing above.


3 bolts, gear to 2.5" for the anchor

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By usetob
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 5, 2008

Has this been repeated?
By Darrell Hensel
Jul 11, 2008

Really slick and featureless rock. While it doesn't have any individual moves on it that are as hard as some other routes, I still found this to be perhaps the most serious lead I've done at either rock. I found there to be more than a couple of hard moves on it. And most of the hard climbing is not near the bolts. My feeling was/is that the moves from the first bolt up to about 20' above the third are almost all 5.11 or 5.12 with no place to really stop. In my book, a hard psychological lead due to the runouts and continuous, and tenuous, nature of the climbing.

But then, those are just my opinions. I'd be curious to hear what other people who have led the route think. Perhaps there is a rubber that works better than what I used?

The route was almost done with two bolts. However, a long fall from the last hard moves intimidated me into placing a third bolt. BTW: no need to use the Jigsaw flake, stay left of it.
By C Miller
Jul 11, 2008

To quote KP - "If you have to think, you're off".
By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Nov 20, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

Arguably the best hard slab route in So Cal. One tenuous rest in 40 feet of continuous, steep, thin hold smedging. Perfect rock.
By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

Three lead attempts yesterday, all resulted in big falls. Still a little hot.
By Darrell Hensel
Oct 21, 2014

A bit of a ride, eh?
By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Oct 21, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

Not bad (~20') but I still had a move to do to get to the decent right hand. I was "tense and nervous and can't relax".
Editing comment: the fall was OK.
By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Nov 16, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

Finally got this on lead. What a great route, thank you Darrell.

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