Of the many classics at the Pet, this one is among the most classic. A long, dead-vertical line with cool moves, tricky sequences, and some good fall potential as the bolts get more and more spaced near the top.
A bolt station for the route to the left can be used to shorten the route, you'll still have to climb 11c, but you won't get the full experience.
This is the second bolt line left of the break where the cliff base drops twenty feet. Descend the stairs and take an immediate right and the little trail will put you almost in front of it. Also the second bolt line left of The Flingus Cling.
At least ten bolts to a two bolt anchor. A stick clip for the first bolt is recommended and a 60m rope is necessary.
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Mar 15, 2010
The guidebook says it's only 27.5 meters, which would be closer to 85 feet. I've never done the route but I'd like to get on it this year, is a 60m rope enough to rappel from the anchors?
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Mar 15, 2010
Mark, I'm not certain about that. I think the 85 feet would be to the point where you can escape off to an anchor to the left. I'm pretty sure that you need at least a 60m to get down in one rap, but if it doesn't reach, you can try swinging over to the base of Flingus Cling, which is higher up the hill, or you can use the anchor for the climb left of The Couch as an intermediate rap, so you'll be able to get down one way or another.
|By Colin R|
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 20, 2010
This route has the honor of handing me the biggest whipper I've ever taken, probably about 30 feet. I fell while in the act of clipping just near the rest ledge (probably shouldn have hung on the bolt below it, was "burning" for sure)...
|By Eric Hirst|
Aug 31, 2011
A single 60m rope is fine for the full route. I finally got on the full version this weekend after various trips up the love-seat variation, and Oh My the top part is worth doing.