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The Highlands aka Highlander
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Burning Chrome 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1995
Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 11, 2001
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Dave on a warmup.

Description 

Burning Chrome is immediately to the right of Blue Sky Mining. The climbing begins off a small ledge in something of an inset slot. Burning Chrome delivers its crux right away, between bolts 3 and 4. Done straight up, as it was intended, the crux goes well at 5.11d with a long reach to thin hands. Unfortunately, the crux can be largely avoided by a long jog to the left, stepping back right clips the bolt easily without the committing straight up move. Play by your own rules; the climbing is great fun no matter how the crux is done. The route finishes with a short slab to a head wall on some good edges and probably never harder than 5.10d/5.11a.

Because it lacks the weird start of Blue Sky Mining, I find the climbing on Burning Chrome to be overall the more enjoyable of the two routes. Two stars for the good rock, fun moves, and nice continuity. Burning Chrome is another fine contribution by the Master of Clear Creek, Alan Nelson.


Protection 

QDs only. This 85 foot route needs only 9 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The obvious squirt off to the left at the 3rd-4th bolt area and taking nice rests to the right on the upper bit make this a fun problem at 10c. Better than average reach helps 5'10".

By Bill Wright
Mar 11, 2002

I did this route yesterday - with the lower crux bypass. I think the guidebook we had called this route 11b with the bypass. I was excited to get this route clean, but now I see Leo calls is 10c! :-)

I don't think the route is that easy. I felt the bottom section was quite pumpy and probably 10c/d alone. The upper face seems to be 5.11a/b, but maybe that is wishful thinking. The edges are pretty good, but they are small and the wall is steep. It isn't very long, though. Anyway, a lot of fun. Going straight up looked very hard. I couldn't even find what holds you'd be going for.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 14, 2002
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Well, no offense Bill, perhaps we have different strengths. You found these iron cross moves on Job Review that I couldn't and face climbed where I smeared. Here I found the moves good but 10a or 10b to start (no iron crosses but move L as soon as possible with a high step L) and 10c above with a couple shakeout rests R. I found this one way easier than Job Review 11a, Get a Job 11a, Highlander 10d, Herb-a-med-a-veg-a-matic 11b, Job Security 11c, Not One of us 11 (P1). It seemed more in line with Lord of the Rings 10, Job Security 10d (P1), Get Insurance 10a?, a bit harder than Learning to Crawl 10a/b. Maybe being shorter helps? Or power vs technique? Or using all the holds - not just a directissima? I'll respect our different strengths.

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Nov 10, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Straight up is a hard move. This route is definitely in the 11s.

By Nick W.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 9, 2008

I have no shame, I went left at the fourth bolt which made the route no harder than 10d. Straight up looks hard and I'd like to do it proper someday. The best part of the climb was the thin crimps on the headwall, so good.

By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Oct 27, 2008

This climb feels harder onsight than most CCC 10d's even by going left at the first crux. Make sure you get the fourth bolt clipped. I would suggest easy 11 as it is pumpy and slopey in spots. The upper crux is a bit contrived in that a rather large ledge is just right of the final bolts before the anchor.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Mar 13, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

If you do the correct line, this route is 11d.