Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding) Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||40.7793, -122.0022 View Map Incorrect?
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|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Muscrat, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben|
|Submitted By: ||Nick Sullens on Sep 28, 2011 with updates
An excellent limestone sport climbing crag, located 26 miles outside of Redding on the way to Burney via the 299. The rock is limestone of pretty good quality, a bit dirty from lack of use but solid.
From the I-5 take CA299 east toward Burney. Burney Limestone is 26 miles outside of Redding. First you will pass a pretty large limestone outcropping, this is not it. The road is primarily S turns, but after a large S turn, you will see a paved pullout on the right side of the road accompanied by a Highway Information sign with lights on top. There is a small gravel pullout just beyond this on the right hand side of the road and a small trail on the left side of the road, (across the road) heading up a steep hill into the forest. This is the approach trail. The trail is very small and not well marked,(look for a 5'tall rock outcropping) but it is there and takes you right into The Shredding. You'll know you passed it if you see a large limestone wall on the left. This is the wall know as The Pachyderm Wall aka The Sunshine Wall. Cross the road with caution, it is a highway, vehicles come around the corner at high speed.
Climbing Season For the Northeast California area.
Weather station 3.1 miles from here
68 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',32],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding):
Featured Route For Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)
Hole in the Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CA
: Northeast California
: ... : Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine...
This route starts just above the "large hole in the wall", alcove. The route starts easy at around 5.7 along a crack, passing 5 bolts to the first anchor, at 10 meters. This anchor can be passed to combine the lower and upper portions of the climb, if using a 70 meter rope. The route becomes much more difficult after the first anchor with plenty of smears, crimps and layback's. Continue past 8 more bolts another 25 meters to the upper anchor. You can lower off at the anchor if using a 70 met...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: Another Vertical Nightmare (AVN) 5.12. Short and ...
|Comments on Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Oct 16, 2014
bring a stick clip for high first bolts. Can be loose on the lesser climbed areas
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Aug 2, 2015
A NOTE ON THE NEW GLUEIN BOLTS AND ANCHORS
Having lived in Sydney for the last 7 years, i learned to bolt in the sandstone of the blue mountains, under the tutelage of Mike Law and Steven Hawkshaw, both industrial engineers and climbers. The following document is the general guide that i follow.
With the gluein anchor placements, when lowering off or TR, it is better to thread the rap ring if there is one and also thread the bolt. ( as the purpose is always to have 2 safety points) The 2 are offset to prevent rope twist which happens on 2 anchor points at the same level (overcome on most existing climbs at the shredding by unsightly chains). If quickdraws are used to TR off the anchors, i noticed on a couple of routes on the outer wall, (King of Fives and Momento Mori) the gate can be forced open with the angles generated from the rope line, as i didnt space them well enough, so its better to used a screwgate when TR, if you dont want to thread the anchor.