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Routes in Left of Venus Wall (The Bradley White Wall)
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Bradley White Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Burned T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Cornered T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dirtiest Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Edge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Fire Proof T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Flame T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kindling T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Morning Star T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Schist a side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Scorched T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Singed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Three Way Tie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Bradley White |
| Page Views: | 733 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Jul 1, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
The rating keeps changing on this climb. I gave it the bomb for a while. It always fun! The moss was increasing its growth on the run out crux. That's changed and the two stars this climb should have will be there when the landscaping is done.
In the meantime, on the left side of the slab there is a fallen pine tree. Approach the slab on pine needle dirt bulges and reach a white rock foot ledge. Dry your shoes off and begin up the slab. The climb has a finger crack filled with dirt that will take pro. The crack stops twenty feet up and after a short run out over to the trunk of a pine tree (5.2). After this continue up carefully past leaning on slab rock (its loose). Above the rock a steeper slab (crux) with much moss to avoid right and then a dying tree obstacle to get over. I stand on the tree. Then the finger crack for pro reappears. Very sharp and smooth rock. The easiest and most protected climb in this area. Still a very run out rope climb. Free soloed.
In the meantime, on the left side of the slab there is a fallen pine tree. Approach the slab on pine needle dirt bulges and reach a white rock foot ledge. Dry your shoes off and begin up the slab. The climb has a finger crack filled with dirt that will take pro. The crack stops twenty feet up and after a short run out over to the trunk of a pine tree (5.2). After this continue up carefully past leaning on slab rock (its loose). Above the rock a steeper slab (crux) with much moss to avoid right and then a dying tree obstacle to get over. I stand on the tree. Then the finger crack for pro reappears. Very sharp and smooth rock. The easiest and most protected climb in this area. Still a very run out rope climb. Free soloed.
Location
Right of Singed and the only way to it is by traversing right on this fallen pine tree. Hike down left or continue higher scrambling to the trail that traverses the main cliff.
Protection
Stoppers and medium Aliens would work best. Tricams would be okay. Friends would be hard to place. Walk off down left. Rappelling not recommended because the pine tree would be in the way at the base. The base of this slab is very dirty and the tree avoids all this dirt. The crack is choked with pine needles dirt and leaves.
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