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Towards the left side of Cracked Wall, locate the first bolt about 15' off the ground. [For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']. Climb up steep face past 2 more bolts, with a crux coming between the bolts 2 and 3. Continue straight up on easier terrain, passing two more bolts. Trend left into the top "notch" of Camel and to the Camel anchor.
5 bolts + a light rack for the top.
|By Jim Reynolds|
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I love the start of this climb as opposed to 'No Permit Required.' Makes it a much more consistantly difficult climb. I found a brilliant undercling to get past the initial section.
|By Ken Klis|
May 4, 2011
Regarding User Name Priapism, this is a persistent, usually painful, erection that lasts for more than four hours and occurs without sexual stimulation.
Isn't this normal?
What is your favorite route ever?
|By John Knight|
Jan 21, 2012
In the description of the climb it says, "[For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']."
This "old, rusty bolt" has been replaced with a new, shiny bolt so don't look for the old rusty bolt.
Side Note - Basically, this climb is a direct start variation of No Permit Required. For some reason, people started calling it Burn Permit and the name (sort of) stuck. I guess it's easier to call it Burn Permit than the Direct Start Variation of New Permit Required.
I thought the direct start was a grade harder than the original start (clip the new, shiny bolt and move left).