Burly Man  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Mark Roth on Dec 13, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Looking up the Burly offwidth.

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Description 

The crux (for me) was getting off the ground. Some creative stemming then maybe a chimney type move will get you to jugs atop a chockstone. Then scramble up onto the ledge under the big roof. A perfect #3 fits at the top of the corner and a #4.5 or modern #5 is perfect in the roof (a #6 is too big). Time to get burly. Undercling out the roof and head up the crack. Turning the corner is a little awkward and is probably the real crux. Another #5 would protect the top but isn't completely needed as the difficulty ends when you pull around the roof. You can step left to the Catching the Quarry anchor to lower. The guidebook says to use the anchor to the right, but you can't get there from here, and they are not equipped for rappelling anyway. I listed this with the guidebook rating, but it didn't feel nearly as hard as the name suggests. In fact, it's quite a bit easier than the 5.8s @ the East Quarry!

Location 

This route is around the corner to the right from Catching the Quarry. Start in a giant, right-facing corner with the obvious crack that goes out the left side of an overhang.

Protection 

SR? not exactly... 2 #5s are ideal, 1 #3, maybe a #4, but that's about it....

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A good stance after the burly lieback moves.