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Frigid Air Buttress
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Blue Bunny 
Burlesque 
Dear Diary 
Frigid Air Buttress 
Middle Earth 

Burlesque 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman. May 1979
Page Views: 1,847
Submitted By: John Hegyes on May 2, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Burlesque with first three belays marked.

Description 

Scramble up mossy ledges for about 150 feet to the base of the climb.

Pitch 1: Climb up the right leaning crack then straight up to a ledge with a tree. (80 feet, 5.7)

Pitch 2: Shoot up the hand crack in the left facing corner. Pass the rappel anchor, head left on a ledge to the base of the flake. Sling the flake (extra long runner) for an anchor. (160 feet, 5.8+)

Pitch 3: The main event. Climb the flake (offwidth or lieback) past a bolt and continue up behind the flake into a narrow(!) chimney. Scoot up a corner to a ledge. (160 feet, 5.9)

Pitch 4: Easy fourth class leads to the summit of the feature.

Rappel the route with two ropes.


Location 

Burlesque is located in the drainage that separates Necromancer from Frigid Air Buttress in Icebox Canyon. It is also the descent route for Frigid Air. The route is about 100 yards further upstream, to the left of Frigid Air. It is also about 50 yards downstream from the waterfall at the back of the drainage. The landmark feature is the giant flake that looks like a bomb bay roof on the third pitch.


Protection 

Standard rack plus some wide gear. We used an old style #5 Camalot. Consider a #3 Big Bro.



Photos of Burlesque Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 3 OW. This is why you climb Burlesque
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 OW. This is why you climb Burlesque
Ridiculous tat all over this side of the wall.
BETA PHOTO: Ridiculous tat all over this side of the wall.
Comments on Burlesque Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 4, 2006

The 3rd pitch chimney is very similiar to The narrows pitch on the Steck-Salathe', only shorter and not quite as hard!!

By billdlee
From: las vegas
May 7, 2009

There is a variation for the third pitch. I had to climb it to get my rope free when I tried to repel off of it after I did frigid air buttress.

The variation is to climb the dihedral just above the repel anchors in the far left corner (left assuming that you are facing Las Vegas with your back to the wall). Its on the same ledge as the offwidth. I'd rate it about 5.8, little run out in some places. Good protections. Actually a fun climb. There is an offwidth and a chimney in it. Just be careful of the face holds. Very tenuous and breakable. After you climb the pitch, you can set up an anchor at a small tree just after you finish the chimney.

The climb is about 40-45 meters, Singles except for green (.75) and red (1) Camelot. Double up on those. YOu will also need a long sling if you want to place gear in the small cave about 20 feet above the start. From the anchor at the top, you can traverse over to the rap anchor with the single bolt.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jun 11, 2011

I think Bill's describing Dear Diary. If you are a 5.8 leader, you have no business being on Burlesque anyway, but if you're getting on the top pitch of Dear Diary, consider that my partner leads 5.10 and was shaky as hell FOLLOWING the pitch. It's heads up and then some. Be safe.