Burl Dog  5.12+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12+ [details] FA:  zack smith Submitted By:  Duncan P Ryan on Mar 20, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Uncharacteristic for an Indian Creek route in that the climb does not rely on crack climbing. Make your way up the first half of the route on an array of shelves, wraps and rounded crimpers. The meat of the climb is moving through a very small tips crack (about 20 feet). Unless you have fingers thinner than the diameter of a #2 pencil, just treat this section as a long 1/4-pad crimp fest. After a good stance on top of the thin crack, step in pods, maybe use a nearly invisible ledge and find your way to a series of jugs.

Location 

On the right facing side of the dihedral Kool Cat ascends. Look for the jagged crack creeping its way up the middle section.

Protection 

According to Bloom, 7x 0.4 cams (gold friends). Might consider grouping placements of this size next to each other. Anchors can alternatively be reached from lowering off the Kool Cat anchors and climbing up the upper jugs. Be careful of swing potential, though.

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BETA PHOTO: Midway up the thin tips crack on Burl Dog.