Buried Treasure 

Jake... the sun moves, so im not too worried about that part, haha... however i think this route is worth a bit more description...

You climb easier 5.9ish rock to the roof about 20-25 feet up, this would be the lower crux... Awkward moves over the roof lead to a good stance... Above are 2 more bulges, the first one isnt bad but steals a little energy and getting past the second one is a bit of a pumpy afair... Climb some sidepulls then make a move left and mentel up on to a slabby stance... Here you can move right in to the crack which for me was a wonderful thing since i was a bit pumped cause i could still jam... climb the crack to the chains...

there were a few loose holds but the dirtyness that was mentioned in the guide book is gone and the rock is nice and clean...

I really love this climb - varied movement, cool rock and a perfect hand crack at top to boot. Out of the three 11bs right in a row I think this one is the best.

Ravens often build their nest directly above the anchor, so if you didn't notice them until you got there, they may freak the liver out of you. It's best to avoid in the spring when they are there and making a fuss, or at least be discrete as you approach the top and lower quickly and quietly away.

Mark, was the FA done mostly on trad gear? And reto-bolted later?

At least the top. Ted and Brady retroed it later. I may have replaced one or two of the lower bolts that were getting funky.

I distinctly remember one day climbing this route and a bird attacking me as I clipped the chains. I think I squacked the rest of the day about horrible birds.....

Uh oh, Hannah. Now they will remember you for years.
www.newscientist.com/article/dn18429-if-you-think-a-crow-is->>>

Fantastic climb for sure. Great for breaking into the mid 11s at Rumney. It is like 3 different routes stacked on top of each other. First part is basic 5.9 face climbing. Pull the roof then up to the crack. Short people like me lay back on the sidepull while taller people can get decent feet on out right. The second crux is a hard pull up from the crimp up the slab and get established. It finishes with an easy 10ish crack that you can jam securely while having enough features on the face for your feet. Superb route!